GSXR-600 Leaking.. DANG IT!!

[DeenaMK]

Alright.. so after coming in from a ride I parked my bike in the garage at the same spot I usually park it. I come in the next morning only to find Oil on the floor to the left of the front tire. I felt along the fork and oil is coming down the fork.. so what do ya'll think? fork seal? tube? and approximately how much? And how soon do I have to take care of it? Also is this something I can get from the junk yard or does it have to be new? (hint: junk yard is a better answer for me...lol)

Thanks a bunch, I appreciate any comments.
Deena

P.S: Anyone selling 04 GSXR gauges? 12K or so?

[DaleCaliente]

are you a wheelier?

[malik ross]

fork seal. might as well change them both. junk yard would have them but you would have seals probably in the same condition as the ones that are leaking.

take the forks to a shop and have them check for pitting on the tube as well.

i have no idea of the cost. i do my own work.

[tarosean]

Cost is around 250.00 to rebuild forks off the bike, probably double if they take the forks off. (Price quoted to me in Houston, TX couple months ago)

[Napalm]

Wow. $250 for forks. That's reason enough to learn to do your own work.

Oil Seal Part # 503478-001 @$14.53 each.

you should do both while you are at it.

Find a rider that does their own work near by and get them a 12 of cerveza and you will probably be done with a lot less out of pocket. It's a pretty quick project.

[tarosean]

Originally Posted by Napalm

Wow. $250 for forks.

Oil Seal Part # 503478-001 @$14.53 each.

you should do both while you are at it.

No... chit.... I did them myself for a bout 55 (seals/boots/oil) thou had to make my own tool.

[Napalm]

Originally Posted by tarosean

No... chit.... I did them myself for a bout 55 (seals/boots/oil) thou had to make my own tool.

Which tool? To pry the seal or get the bolt out of the bottom of the fork?

And why do they always make that bolt some bizarre shape? Just so they can charge you for a special tool?

[tarosean]

Originally Posted by Napalm

Which tool? To pry the seal or get the bolt out of the bottom of the fork?

And why do they always make that bolt some bizarre shape? Just so they can charge you for a special tool?

For the Piston (conventional forks)

[User Name]

Yup, sounds like you have a leaking fork seal. I recently did mine, the local shop wanted about $80 each fork (+ parts) if I brought in the forks, so I just did them myself. Unless you have the tools, the ingenuity to rig up some sort of spring compressor, or know someone who does, I'd recommend having a shop do them. Stay out of the junk yard, all you need is a $20 seal (although you might as well do both forks while you're at it).

[DeenaMK]

Lol not a wheeler at all. I'm happy I can tame the beast and ride it safely. I guess ill just take it to the shop, got a quote for 150.

Thanks for the replies.

[Metal Sonic]

If it were my forks leaking I'd have the dealer or shop replace them with new high performance ohlins shocks!! Great excuse to upgrade.

[haw4747]

Originally Posted by Metal Sonic

If it were my forks leaking I'd have the dealer or shop replace them with new high performance ohlins shocks!! Great excuse to upgrade.

a few thousand vs 200.... uh ya, thats a great decision

[Jyn]

Originally Posted by haw4747

a few thousand vs 200.... uh ya, thats a great decision

hell yeah. gotta upgrade that suspension for the street, yo.

[hoaxci5]

Originally Posted by DeenaMK

Lol not a wheeler at all. I'm happy I can tame the beast and ride it safely. I guess ill just take it to the shop, got a quote for 150.

Thanks for the replies.

Don't have them put the same weight oil back in the forks. Make sure its the right weight for your weight. You might consider new springs too while they are apart. But at a minimum have them put the correct weight oil in for you.

[Veefer97]

Try this DIY
Fork oil/seal replacement

This guide should help the user in replacing the fork oil, fork spring and fork seals.
As always this is just a guide, consult your maintenance manual for specific instructions as if you do not perform this procedure correctly you may get injured.

Procedure:
Right side up forks:

1 Lightly loosen all of the hardware that will need to be removed
2 Place bike on rear stand and then lift front wheel off ground
3 Top triple, clamp must be fully loose before loosening the top fork nut. Loosen top fork nut
4 Remove front brakes, wheel and fender
5 Loosen clip on’s
6 Loosen lower triple clamp
7 Remove fork
8 Repeat steps 6-7 for other fork
9 Using screwdriver unscrew the rebound dampener screw to it’s full up position (counterclockwise). Do this gently or you will ruin the screw.
10 Once the screw gently tops out count turns or click while screwing in the dampener screw until it gently bottoms out. Do not omit this step, write down the number of turns or clicks. Unscrew and top out the rebound dampener screw, this is important
11 Remove top fork nut

Upside down forks
1 Slide the aluminum top leg until it bottoms out
2 Place fork in spring compressor tool so that the hole on the bottom of the fork leg engages into the tool standoff
3 Adjust tool so that the top threaded studs of tool are lined up with the holes in spring spacer which located on top of the spring
4 Thread the studs into the spring spacer holes
5 Using tool compress the spring until the dampener rod lock nut is exposed (usually a 14mm wrench can be used on the nut)
6 While holding the top fork nut with one wrench loosen the dampener rod lock nut with another wrench
7 Unscrew the fork nut and remove fork nut with attached dampening rod
8 Carefully loosen the spring compressor tool and release the spring tension
9 Remove spring, spacer and washers

Right side up forks
1 Slide the fork down until it bottoms out
2 While holding the top fork nut with one wrench loosen the dampener rod lock nut with another wrench
3 Unscrew the fork nut and remove fork nut with attached dampening rod
4 Remove spring and spring washers

Draining the oil
Drain the oil by placing the fork upside down over a container. When all of the oil has drained out slide the dampener rod up and down to drain the oil in the cartridge. Do the same with the fork (extend and collapse) until all of the oil is out

Removing and replacing the seal

1 With screwdriver carefully remove dust seal by gently prying around the seal
2 Remove retaining clip that is under the dust seal
3 Remove allen bolt that is located inside the bottom of fork. Some upside forks do not need the allen bolt to be removed. Just lift the tube out. Remove the seal with screwdriver.
4 While holding one end of fork slide the other end in the opposite direction until the seal, spacer and top for bearing come out. This step requires numerous extensions as the seal is a tight fit
5 The seal, spacer and bearing will be on the chromed leg of the fork
6 Remove seal and clean fork leg
7 Tighten the allen bolt removed in step3 to correct torque value
8 Reinstall fork leg into aluminum slider
9 There are special tools for driving the bearing into the slider but a gently used screwdriver and hammer has been effective. I stress the word gently.
10 Once the bearing is seated place the spacer over the bearing
11 Place new seal on fork leg
12 Place old seal over the new seal and using a hammer drive the new seal into the slider. Note: the new seal must be seated full in order for the retaining clip to seat fully
13 Remove old seal and place the dust seal in position


Setting the oil level height

1 Pour oil in until it is approx. 100mm from the top of fork
2 Slide the dampener rod up and down until the fork oil comes through the dampener rod with no bubbles showing. On some forks the oil never reaches the top od dampning tube. Resistance will be felt when the oil is inside the cartridge.
3 Add oil to the level desired. To find oil level go to Race/tech.com. 110 mm is used a lot but check to make sure
Note: To set the correct level take wire coat hanger and bend at your desired level. While putting oil in, stop when oil level reaches the end of your tool. Use a flashlight

Fork assembly

1 Put the spring back into fork
2 Put the washer on top of spring followed by the spacer if any
3 Put washer on top of spacer
4 Make tool with coat hanger (make loop on one end and bend at a 90 angle to snag the dampener rod nut so that the rod can be extended past the spring top)
Pull rod past the top of spring. Safety wire can also be used. Lightly wrap safety wire below the dampener nut and place the spring and washers over wire
5 Place slotted washer under dampener rod
Note: Upside down forks need the compressor tool in order to compress the spring. Be careful doing this
7 Install to fork nut and dampener rod
8 Thread the fork nut onto the dampener cartridge rod
9 Screw in the rebound dampener screw and count the turns.
Note: If turns less than desired the fork nut needs to be turned out counter clockwise. If the turns are more than desired turn clockwise
10 when the correct amount of turns are achieved tighten the dampener cartridge rod nut against the fork nut
Assemble forks on bike in reverse order of disassembly.
Check your maintenance manual for proper torque values
Set your suspension rates accordingly as they have all changed