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Old 03-26-2007, 08:23 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tye
The proper way of setting sag. I spoke with a racer friend of mine the other day who rides the same bike I have and he mentioned that he has never set his sag. I know most bikes are produced with a certain weight rider in mind. Alot of people don't know how to set the bike up for THEM and the benefits from it. When I purchased my last 2 bikes(street bikes) I never changes the postion of the controls until an instructor pointed it out to me on my first track day(easy fix).
yeah definitely, setting sag is a good one.
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Old 03-26-2007, 08:57 PM   #17 (permalink)
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-Valve Adjustments. (Too much?)

-Coolant Change/ Flushing the system.

-Check/Change Spark Plugs.

-Lubing Cables/Cable Adjustments.

-General Tool Tips

-Installing Exhaust/Full/Slip-On/Bolt-On.

Thanks!

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Old 03-26-2007, 11:15 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Coolant flush and fill.
Brake caliper cleaning.
Setting throttle/ clutch slack.
Greasing shock linkages.
Replacing clutch stack.
Repacking exhaust cans......
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Old 03-26-2007, 11:32 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Shit, if you guys brought this up about two months ago, I would have been happy to document the work I did on my bike. Had the engine out to replace valve seals, adjusted the valves, rebuilt all the brake calipers, replaced the tires, chain and sprockets. It's all back together now and running like a champ, so I don't foresee much maintenance for a while. The only thing I didn't do (and should have) was the fork seals. Probably need them later this year.
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Old 03-27-2007, 11:26 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Guys I wont be doing anything like a valve service.

Its just too complicated for the average guy. I know I dont want to be the guy that gives someone just enough information that they go and blow up an engine.

Remember that a motorcycle from oh say the 80's utilizes an "Interference Fit" valve train.............simply put, if you mess up, youre really likely to bend every valve you have on one or the other side of the engine.

So with that said, nothing hardcore mechanical.
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Old 03-27-2007, 11:38 AM   #21 (permalink)
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The ones I had in mind have been said:
Fork Springs
Upgrading brake lines/bleeding brakes
Carb sync
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Old 03-27-2007, 03:14 PM   #22 (permalink)
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If one of the cams is off by one tooth, will the pistons hit those valves @ TDC? I double and triple checked mine when I put it all back together, and then SLOWLY turned it over with a ratchet on the crank. Even stuck a straw in a cylinder through the spark plug hole so I could see when that piston hit TDC and compared it to the positioning of the cams. I'm sure if a cam is off the engine will run like s**t, if at all, but is one tooth off enough to bend your valves? Just currious.

Ok, so non-hardcore mechanical stuff...

Forks - seals, springs, oil, etc.
Brake caliper rebuild, bleed.
Carb/throttle body sync.

Could still show how to check valve clearance, since there's not much someone could do wrong there besides leave the feeler gauge inside...



Quote:
Originally Posted by hybrid
Remember that a motorcycle from oh say the 80's utilizes an "Interference Fit" valve train.............simply put, if you mess up, youre really likely to bend every valve you have on one or the other side of the engine.
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Old 03-27-2007, 03:23 PM   #23 (permalink)
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I was really hoping for the valve adjustment. If you could just give folks an idea of how it's done that would be enough to let folks see if it would be possible for them to do. I sure hate to run out and spend money on a shop manual just to find out that the job is too involved. How bout the cam chain tensioner replacement on the cbrs, or I'd also like to have a how to on re-jetting.
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Old 03-27-2007, 04:42 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by User Name
If one of the cams is off by one tooth, will the pistons hit those valves @ TDC? I double and triple checked mine when I put it all back together, and then SLOWLY turned it over with a ratchet on the crank. Even stuck a straw in a cylinder through the spark plug hole so I could see when that piston hit TDC and compared it to the positioning of the cams. I'm sure if a cam is off the engine will run like s**t, if at all, but is one tooth off enough to bend your valves? Just currious.

Ok, so non-hardcore mechanical stuff...

Forks - seals, springs, oil, etc.
Brake caliper rebuild, bleed.
Carb/throttle body sync.

Could still show how to check valve clearance, since there's not much someone could do wrong there besides leave the feeler gauge inside...
Yeah you can..........if youre off one tooth in the wrong direction...........in the other direction........its not as bad.........piston is still down the cylinder.

Think about what happens to your valves if the timing is 15degrees each way. Slotted cam sprockets only have about 10 degrees of movement and you can damage valves with that.........
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Old 03-27-2007, 04:44 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by damonmlime2000
I was really hoping for the valve adjustment. If you could just give folks an idea of how it's done that would be enough to let folks see if it would be possible for them to do. I sure hate to run out and spend money on a shop manual just to find out that the job is too involved. How bout the cam chain tensioner replacement on the cbrs, or I'd also like to have a how to on re-jetting.

the answer is simply that its just too involved for the average guy. Id show the whole world but it literally isnt something Id recommend for a beginner. Anything other than a beginner is a mechanic and just buys the service manual.

Im a total advocate that anyone working on their stuff or anyone elses stuff should use a manual.

Ive been turning wrenches for a long long time now and I still use them for the details.

The whole cam chain tensioner thing drives me nuts.........Ive heard so many stupid assed people scream cam chain tensioner like it sounds like MURDER MURDER MURDER!!!!!

The truth of it is that while yes the CCT does go bad on most bikes........its not nearly the plague that people are making it out to be.

Replacing one with a manual one is a tricky venture and Im willing to bet that nearly 70% of the knuckleheads who put their own in do it wrong and wear out parts faster.

Look at a cam chain tensioner as a wearable item...........it shouldnt be unheard of replacing one like you would anything else that wears out.

I will do one on rejetting.
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Old 03-27-2007, 05:19 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hybrid
Think about what happens to your valves if the timing is 15degrees each way. Slotted cam sprockets only have about 10 degrees of movement and you can damage valves with that.........
Gotchya, that's what I thought, and that's why I checked it so many times to make sure it was right.

Quote:
Originally Posted by hybrid
the answer is simply that its just too involved for the average guy. Id show the whole world but it literally isnt something Id recommend for a beginner. Anything other than a beginner is a mechanic and just buys the service manual.
Fair enough. Yea, it's one of those things where "if you have to ask, you shouldn't do it...". If someone's competant enough to do it themselves, all they need is the service manual, and you can download PDF's of virtually every service manual out there.
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Old 03-27-2007, 07:15 PM   #27 (permalink)
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I don't think I saw it but Chain maintenance would be a good one, and how to decide what chain is right for you...i'm lost with it
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Old 03-27-2007, 07:16 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AJCrader
I don't think I saw it but Chain maintenance would be a good one
How bout you go read my "chain maintenance with hybrid" thread.
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Old 03-27-2007, 07:20 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hybrid
How bout you go read my "chain maintenance with hybrid" thread.
You did a nice job

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Old 03-27-2007, 07:25 PM   #30 (permalink)
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all those are good ideas
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