How do sprockets work? - Sportbikes.net
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 10-21-2004, 03:12 AM Thread Starter
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How do sprockets work?

Don't have a bike yet, but still doing as much research as I can beforehand, so.. How exactly do sprockets work? I know there's two, the front and the rear, and the chain is connected to both, back tire to the rear sprocket, engine to the front sprocket making the bike move.. But I've seen so many people with oversized sprockets, does that make the bike faster? ..or
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 10-21-2004, 04:00 AM
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The larger your front (drive) sprocket, the higher your top speed potential. Notice I say potential, because you may not have the horsepower to reach that potential top speed. The chain is actually more complicated than it looks. Chains are made up of side plates, pins and rollers. Most bike have chains with small rubber o-rings or another type of seal to keep the dirt out of the links, hence providing longer chain life. Note that chains will stretch regardless of cleanliness, however, especially when new.
The rear sprocket on most sportbikes is bolted to a carrier that is inserted into an assembly of rubber pads, or fingers if you will. It's not easy to explain without pics, but suffice it to say that the sprocket and wheel are separated by rubber to cushion the drive. Larger rear sprockets will apply more torque to the rear tire at the expense of top end speed. Keep reading and asking questions. Bikes are getting pretty complicated these days but it helps to know how they work.

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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 10-21-2004, 05:20 AM
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^^^ Very good explaination. Nice



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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 10-21-2004, 07:43 AM
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Sprockets are like gears. There is a ratio front to rear, like 14/42, 14 is the number of front teeth and 42 is the number of rear teeth.

Changing sprockets changes the rpm of the motor vs speed of the bike.

Increasing the ratio gives a higher torque multiplication effect and greater acceleration at the expense of theoretical top speed.
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 10-21-2004, 08:26 AM
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and gas mileage, and making your speedo read higher( and miles traveled too-odometer) you know whats funny, I had a sprocket left over from my first bike, a 97 yzf600, its the same one used on my Hayabusa

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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 10-21-2004, 09:46 AM
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Larger (more teeth) rear sprocket = lower gearing (with same front) = easier wheelies.
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 10-21-2004, 11:14 AM
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How easy are spockets to get to? My "stock bike" (so the previous owner said) seems to have quite a few performance parts. Now that I see the mention of change of gas milage, I am wondering if my bike has different sprockets on it. I am getting about 25 mpg and it may be worth my time to count my teeth!

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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 10-21-2004, 02:40 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xtremekramer
How easy are spockets to get to? My "stock bike" (so the previous owner said) seems to have quite a few performance parts. Now that I see the mention of change of gas milage, I am wondering if my bike has different sprockets on it. I am getting about 25 mpg and it may be worth my time to count my teeth!
CHAIN REPLACEMENT -

FRONT -
The countershaft sprocket (on the engine) is typically covered by a case cover that is held on by 4 to 8 bolts (model depending). Removal of this cover IS NOT always required.

REAR -
The rear sprocket and rear wheel WILL NOT net to be removed to effect chain replacement.



SPROCKET REPLACEMENT -

FRONT -
The sprocket case cover MUST be removed to physically remove the countershaft sprocket (on the engine). Tools required may include a large, 1/2 drive socket (25mm - 35mm) on an impact drive and a SAE screwdriver to remove the nut, washer & countershaft sprocket from the countershaft.

REAR -
The rear sprocket CAN ONLY be removed from the wheel hub (Cush Drive) after the wheel has been removed from the swingarm and the attached apparatuses. Tools required may include a large 1/2 or 3/8 drive socket (24mm - 32mm) on a ratchet (or OEM supplied axle wrench) and an open end wrench (10mm - 12mm) to loosen the adjuster nuts, remove the axle castle nut, washer and the rear axle. Some bikes may require partial rear brake system disassembly.

THE ONLY EXCEPTION FROM REAR WHEEL REMOVAL IS TO HAVE A 2-PIECE REAR SPROCKET MANUFACTURED by SPROCKET SPECIALISTS.


Hope this helps
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 10-21-2004, 03:04 PM
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The wheels on the bike go round and round, round and round. the wheels... oh im sry wrong explination
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 10-21-2004, 05:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xtremekramer
How easy are spockets to get to? My "stock bike" (so the previous owner said) seems to have quite a few performance parts. Now that I see the mention of change of gas milage, I am wondering if my bike has different sprockets on it. I am getting about 25 mpg and it may be worth my time to count my teeth!
25mpg on a 600??? Dayammm. Somethings wrong with that picture. I used to get that on a turbo-busa riding the piss outta it.
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post #11 of 11 (permalink) Old 10-22-2004, 12:05 AM
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Yup hense the reason for all the trouble shooting (posted on other threads). Thanks for the info on sprocket removal

-xtremekramer
2007 GSXR 750, metzeler z6
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