Parts needed:
1. Buell xb9sx headlight, windscreen, and windscreen mounting bracket
You may also need to order the headlight rubbers assuming they are not included with the headlight. And H7 bulbs, of course.
2. Renthal Superbike Bars in color of your choice (get some grips too)
3. Bar ends of choice (Rizoma Conical Bar Ends/Handlebar Caps wt Sliders)
4. Headlight ears/clamps that will fit 43mm forks.
Mine came from Moto Madness. Here:
Dual Headlight Brackets - $79.99 : Zen Cart!, The Art of E-commerce
I would not recommend getting the set I bought though as the actual fork clamp is plastic and not very pretty.
I was given the info about the Aztec8 brackets by another person and it turned out false. The brackets from Aztec8 are exactly the same as the one's I bought. On the upside, mine work so I guess the Aztec8 brackets will work too. I would still recommend a nicer billet clamp and aluminum headlight ears if you can find some.
You may find some cheaper brackets but beware, the Buell headlight mounting points are narrow and require the ears to be angled inward. You can't really see it that well from my photos but the ears are angled in like this:
oo
/ \
...where the two circles are the headlamps. The brackets I chose allow the ears to be placed inside of the fork clamps so the angle of attachment isn't too severe. Old school headlight ears do not allow for this adjustment. Furthermore, the brackets I chose can be mounted without removing the top triple clamp. This is key to saving time and frustration.
5. Mounting hardware for the windscreen and headlight.
Now you could go to the hardware store and source this stuff yourself searching for the proper pitch and length and all of that crap. However, if you are already at a Buell dealer ordering up your stuff, you can save yourself some time by also getting:
4 mounting screws for the windscreen to windscreen bracket
2 mounting bolts to attach the headlight to the ears
With that being said, you will later have to make a trip to the hardware store anyway. So if you want to save like five dollars scavenging for the proper screws and bolts, be my guest. That's what I did.
6. Mirror(s).
You could do bar-end or bar-mount. I've always preferred the look of bar-mount. My mirror attaches via a special clutch lever pivot bolt with a threaded stud sticking out of the top. The mirror bolts to this stud using an adaptor. Here's what I had to order to make it work. Note: prices are not for the faint of heart especially for one mirror setup.
1 x Rizoma "Circuit 743" Mirror $111.00
1 x Rizoma Mounting Adapter for Bar Mounted Mirrors $12.00
1 x MotoWizard Left Side Mirror Adapter for Yamaha FZ1 $25.00
All items came straight from PJs parts online. They have some awesome stuff over there.
PJ's Parts - Accessories For Every Bike And Rider
I painted my "Motowizard" Black with some high quality rattle-can semigloss. I also painted my levers with the same paint. They look great and are holding up well thus far.
7. Your choice of turn signals.
If you do a three wire turn signal all you have to do is swap over the stock plug to your new signals. Otherwise, get some quick disconnect plugs and go to work. You'll need six male and six female, at most. Better have a couple extra in case you don't crimp one very well and have to redo it. Signal wires look to be 22 gauge so make sure to get the right connectors.
Stock wiring:
Blue wire with Red stripe is for the running lights (constant 12v). The other wires, Black & Dark Green and Black & Brown are for the blinkers. If I recall correctly, Black is the ground so attach Black to Black when hooking up the new signal. Both Brown and Green attach to the power side, usually red on an aftermarket blinker, sometimes yellow or white. If you go three wire, the left over wire on the blinker should attach to the Blue with Red stripe.
Since I was already ordering from PJs I went with the LED Rizoma Zeros. They were $37.00 and I found out that they are only a two wire signal. This means no running lights. The Blue with Red stripe is not used. And remember, if you go to LEDs make sure you get a new flasher. The resistance of the LED is much less than an incandescent bulb. As a result your blinkers will flash super fast if you don't get a proper flasher or at least an in-line resistor. Look up "LED Flasher Relay" on eBay to find one for cheap.
The Buell sb9sx headlamp has a running light built in. I do not have this hooked up at this time but I am going to use one of the constant 12v (Blue w/Red) wires from the turn signal running light to get that working in the near future.
I "modified" my stock headlamp connectors to work with the Buell H7 bulbs simply by cutting the stock FZ6 plastic connector in half. So no rewiring there just cut the wire and splice them back together to fit through the headlight rubber.
It's easy enough to mount the headlamp once you have all of the above parts. Just mount the clamps, use screws to mount the headlamp to the ears, and then the windscreen bracket and windscreen. More on this later.
8. The hard part (but not that hard).
So after you get all the crap listed above your setup will almost be complete. The only thing to do now is to mount the speedo/tach and deal with the extra wiring. For my project I went the lazy route. I hope some of you come up with a better solution because mine is not the best. But here goes:
Go to the hardware store and pick up some hot water heater strapping or some other kind of sturdy but slightly bendable steel material. I chose something a little bit thick but not so thick I couldn't bend it by hand or with some pliers. I don't have a garage or a vise so I had to use all hand tools to get the strapping bent into the position I wanted. Don't get the strapping too wide. I'd say 1.5" max width. And don't get the flimsy stuff, it wont hold the speedo/tach rigid enough. I chose the hot water heater strapping because it has holes in it and fit the bill. It should cost about $5 to $10 for way more than you'll need.
While you're still there, take your strapping over to the nuts/bolts/screws section of the hardware store and get yourself a few screws with a matching nylock nut and a washer to match. Make sure the item you choose fits through the hole in the strapping. Do your searching for your windscreen screws and headlight mounting bolts, if needed. Best to bring the headlight parts with you if you're going to take this route rather than getting them from the Buell dealership. You may also want to get your blinker wire connectors.
You will need something to cut this strapping. If you have electric tools, maybe a grinder, a reciprocating saw, anything to cut metal, great! Otherwise, you're with me. I busted out the hacksaw. Make sure you have a sharp blade, preferably 32 tooth. Blades are cheap so get extras in case you break one.
You will need a drill and some drill bits. You will be drilling holes in the aluminum Buell windscreen mounting bracket that you just bought! You may also need to widen the speedo/tach mounting hole in the strapping so get a drill bit to do that if you don't have one.
That's it from the hardware store.
Reuse the stock mounting screws for the speedo/tach. You can also reuse the rubber mounts. You will inevitably have to return to the hardware store because I probably forgot to tell you everything you need or you may need something else.
9. From here you're sort of on your own.
The following is a list of what I did. I know this wont work for everyone but it is a simple, clean, and easy to perform setup. Most of it you will have to figure out yourself. So here goes:
Again, as in step #7, mount your headlight assembly including fork clamps, ears, headlight, windscreen bracket, and windscreen. The bottom of the headlight should just touch the edge of the horn. It looks best if the headlight covers the bottom triple tree. If you haven't already, you should check to see that all of your stuff is working: blinkers, headlight, horn, speedo/tach, high/low beam, etc.
So now you have it mounted. Look at it. It looks good huh!? I think so too.
This is where the work comes in. Take your not-yet-mounted speedo/tach and position it where you want it behind the newly mounted windscreen. At this point you need to take some mental notes. You could bust out the tape measure, a piece of string, some electrical tape, whatever works for you, just determine exactly where you want the speedo/tach to rest. After you've figured this out take off only the windscreen and flip over your speedo/tach to find the mounting points. Try to "eyeball" where the strapping will need to go when it is finally connected from the speedo/tach to the windscreen bracket. How will you make the strapping fit, what bends need to be made, what cuts, will the strapping you bought even work, do you really want to go this route, etc.? Once you have that figured out, move on. You may need to remount the windscreen a few times to determine exactly where things should lie.
I personally used one of the pre-existing screw holes on the Buell windscreen bracket to mount my modified/bent strapping to one side of the speedo. I drilled a hole in the windscreen bracket to mount my second strap. I suppose I could take a photo but then you would all see what a slop job it is under there. I still need to cut a small portion of my strapping and repaint it if I want to show it off in a photo without the windscreen. It's not ugly but I only had a hacksaw. 'Nuff said.
After deciding on the best mounting points I took the strapping, figured in extra for bends, and then cut it. I got out the pliers and made two 90 degree bends that mount to the speedo/tach and then tweaked the metal and cut it a little on the edges to get the straps to mount to the windscreen bracket where I drilled one hole and had my pre-existing hole.
I only mounted to two straps to the speedo/tach, not three as the stock setup has. I also painted the straps black so they aren't too obvious under there. Structurally this setup is a little weak. It's not as solid of a mount as the stock version. I have used a couple of hidden zip ties to make sure it doesn't vibrate too much. Overall, with the time and effort put in, I am pleased.
Another speedo mount option:
Actually, I was going to do another setup I saw on here wherein I would mount the speedo to the handlebars. The problem with that was that I have a 2007 model and with it the new style handlebar clamp. I couldn't use the mounting brackets that I bought for the bar mount job because there is no space on my bar due to the new yamaha handlebar clamp that covers the entire center of the bar. So that is another option for pre-2007 owners. You would have to look up the info on how to mount the speedo in that way. I think Steelbilly did his in that manner so maybe he can post a link here or I will edit when I find the info.
10. That extra wiring.
Maybe I should have mentioned this a little earlier in the thread. There is going to be a little "left over" wiring and you need to figure out what to do with it. Some people actually cut the harness to shorten it. They re-wire everything together thereby making things more tidy looking! Having owned a ton of bikes, some with work having been done on the harness, I did not want to go that route. Don't f@$* with the harness, it will often lead to problems down the road, especially if you ride in the wet.
Either pull the wires back into the frame or do what I did. I simply re-routed the wires so they look tidy. I then used electrical tape on all of my connections in order to help with waterproofing. I then doubled/folded the harness on itself in two places and used more electrical tape to bind the fold and keep things out of the way. I then hid it all behind the tiny Buell windscreen along with the flasher. The ground from the speedo and flasher is hooked up and also hidden to my best ability. Yes, if you look, you can see the wiring in there. It's not perfect but it is functional and it looks good.
The most important thing to remember when tidying up the wiring is to make 100% sure your harness is not binding on the fork or any other part of the frame. Also make sure it's not tight in any spots. It must move freely. This is your steering were talking about and if you can't steer, you can't turn. So...
Binding = Bad
also
Tightness = Bad
You can also remove your stock flasher mount and the fairing mount on the other side of the frame to tidy up the look a little further. Replace the mounting bolts so that the frame doesn't get any water in it. Corrosion is also bad.
I finally took some pics under the windscreen, not the prettiest thing in the world but it is tidy. Once the screen is mounted up all you can really see are the turn signal wires. Unfortunately, these pics are a little blurry and you can barely see the "brackets" that I threw together (probably a good thing). What these do show is how compact you can make the wires by adding additional electrical tape and a few zip ties.
So that's it. Sorry no step by step pics but so it goes. I hope someone uses this because it took way too long to write out. Please feel free to correct any mistakes you think I made (apart from spelling of course). I'm a terrible typist.
If someone has the part numbers, that would be great. Especially for that little black grill that goes over the headlights. I want that thing next.
here they are from another post. I have not confirmed prices or numbers with Buell.
Headlight Assembly: Y0421.1ADA $70-$80
Flyscreen Bracket: M0645.1ADA $22-$25
Flyscreen: M1600.1AJAMBX $50-$90 (Blue one so ask for Black)
Headlight Grill: M0023.1AJAYT (I'm ording this next week)
Here's the post that started all this (somehow misspelled Buell in the title):
My FZ6 with Buel Headlight (finally)
"How to" Buell Headlight mod for Yamaha FZ6...
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Linear Mode
