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Old 03-24-2008, 07:01 PM   1 links from elsewhere to this Post. Click to view. #1 (permalink)
bike10
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Default Nooly Nekkid

Not done yet, temp side covers to hide wires, homemade drag bars $29, sill need to make my FE kit and remove reflectors.

last pick is my Duc.
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Old 03-24-2008, 07:15 PM   #2 (permalink)
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i want a monster! Nice transition to naked, your mirrors look wicked! What kind of headlight and how did you mount your speedo?
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Old 03-24-2008, 09:00 PM   #3 (permalink)
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thats a strange looking headlight..you got any pics from the front?
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Old 03-24-2008, 09:17 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I think it`s awesome! totally custom and clean looking

Great work bike10!!
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Old 03-24-2008, 09:19 PM   #5 (permalink)
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oh and btw, join the clan now!!! post your favorite pic there

the more I look at your headlight the more I like it... it blends perfectly!
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Old 03-24-2008, 09:38 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Sweet, another custom job. Nice work!
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Old 03-24-2008, 10:27 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Is that the "Enduro" headlight off of ebay?

LOOKS GREAT!
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Old 03-24-2008, 10:32 PM   #8 (permalink)
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looking good bike10. i know you've got experience painting, may i suggest painting the passenger grab rails to match better? how are you planning on doing those side covers? I like what you did there, usually those headlights (Acerbis?) are mounted flat on. I like how you tucked your speedo behind it all.

p.s. selling your regular upper?
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Old 03-25-2008, 12:52 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Thanx for the positive input everybody!!!!

The head light is a Demon from Fly-n-cycle.com. Looks similar to the Acerbis.

My uppers are for sale. No speedo included, comes with tinted 6” x-tall gustaffeson screen that can be cut down.

The side covers had square edges that didn't flow with the bike’s curves, so I radiused (rounded) the covers. I am molding out of clay and then making a plaster mold a crescent piece that is raised up about 2” and will have an opened scoop with aluminum mesh screen the same dimensions as the side covers painted body color. The original headlight color was blue, but not correct, so I repainted to match and sanded & buffed to a smooth clear coat finish like the tank. The black strip in front was just like the front fender, metallic black, so repainted it flat black and a gloss clear, sanded & buffed and it has a cool look, diff than normal gloss black. The speedo is mounted on a piece of Ľ” acrylic I had laying around, absorbs vibrations more than aluminum and is easy to work with. I used small “L” brackets on the top headlight mounting tab to secure the acrylic piece. I won't be painting the handles. i don't want too much blue.

Much thanx to “avogt18” and “wavex”!! Fly-n-cycle didn’t send a wiring diagram so avogt18 sent me a picture and directions. And wavex sent me blinker directions.

My power commander and K&N filter come tomorrow so I will do an air-box mod. After talking to Micky Cohen (Bike Dyno), the air-box mod should have very real power increases.

The handle bars are drag bars I made with the same pullback as the factoy ones and a slight drop. they put my hands forward and down with a natural wrist position. most drag bars are like my stock ducati bars, unatural and cause wrist fatigue when riding.
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File Type: jpg 2008_0326Image0027.JPG (473.1 KB, 3 views)
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Old 03-25-2008, 01:12 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Looks good. I have the same headlight in black just not installed yet. I've taken the front end off 3 times and zip tied the headlight to the front of the bike to see what it might look like. Each time I like it more and more but I have no idea what to do about the wiring and the gauge. I've read many posts on the topic and I saw the post you referred to by "avogt18" but the headlight I have has 4 lights total, not two like the back of the headlight pictured. Basically, I'm scared that I am going to screw it up. Any advice on wiring the 4 lights and blinkers would be appreciated. Then there's the guage. Damn, I want to go nekked but I'm skeert. Let me go put the old front cowl back on.
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Old 03-25-2008, 01:37 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spaman48 View Post
Looks good. I have the same headlight in black just not installed yet. I've taken the front end off 3 times and zip tied the headlight to the front of the bike to see what it might look like. Each time I like it more and more but I have no idea what to do about the wiring and the gauge. I've read many posts on the topic and I saw the post you referred to by "avogt18" but the headlight I have has 4 lights total, not two like the back of the headlight pictured. Basically, I'm scared that I am going to screw it up. Any advice on wiring the 4 lights and blinkers would be appreciated. Then there's the guage. Damn, I want to go nekked but I'm skeert. Let me go put the old front cowl back on.

I felt the same way.
this is what i used for the blinkers from wavex:

Yeah bro, you won`t use the Blue&Red wire... your right front signal should only use the black (ground)(I CONNECTED THE GROUND TO EACH YELLOW BLINKER WIRE ON THE UNIT) and green (+ from lever switch)... and the left should be black (TO YELLOW) and brown. (this worked perfect).

Fly-n-cycle confirmed this to be correct:

The green wire is the ground: connect the black wire from each headlight plug to this wire. connect the white wire to you're high beam and the blue wire to your low beam.

keep in mind these lights suck based on the bilb wattage. i will be adding a driving light underneath my unit and connect it to the highbeam switch.
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Old 03-26-2008, 06:15 PM   #12 (permalink)
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hear's a rear shot after de-reflectoring it and the $1.74 FE kit and blackened rad covers.
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Old 03-26-2008, 06:42 PM   #13 (permalink)
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question: how is your handlebar mounted?
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Old 03-26-2008, 06:43 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Looks So Sick +1!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old 03-27-2008, 01:48 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
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question: how is your handlebar mounted?
i was wondering who would notice and ask first. it is welded onto an 1/8th inch steel plate with 6 1/2 " (33 degrees) pull back like stock and 1/4" drop angle to give a natural wrist position. i have 4 allen head bolts (like stock) bolting to the original clamp. i spent some time determining the right angle since it is not adjustable. it also puts you lower & forward similar to some of the clip-ons.
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