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FZ6If you’re looking for one bike to perform a multitude of missions, look no further.
Take it from Cycle World* Magazine - “For a more advanced rider looking for a bike to do it all, there is no other choice.”
Yeah, I need to take a good look at the bike to see what the back side of the frame looks like. I'd like to come up with a solution that involves using the behind the frame shift linkage, and doesn't require modding any stock parts (ie. cutting the shift lever).
There may be another solution: if there is enough of a gap between the frame and the engine/trans, the ball joint on the back side of the shift lever could be pushed inward, to clear the frame. I don't think there's enough room for this though.
I'm going to take a good look when I get home tonight and make a decision about which route I'm going to attack.
Okay, took a look and there's not a lot of room behind the frame. So this leads me back to my original thinking, there are 2 options I see without modding any stock parts.
1) Cheap - get a longer threaded rod (by roughly 2") and bend it into an 'L' shape. Then reinforce the bend somehow. This may have a tendancy to want to flex to either side, either hitting the frame, or the engine, but the heim joint might just be stiff enough to keep it in place.
2) Less cheap - duplicate the rizoma setup. I just like the thought of this a lot better, so that's what I'll try and do. If anyone has a lead on the threaded rod, heim joints, and an idler arm, please let me know!
__________________
Aaron - Former FZ6 Elitist - Former R1 Newb
For Sale: Alpinestars Venom 2-pc leather Racing Suit $750 obo
"In the practice of tolerance, one's enemy is the best teacher." - The 14th Dalai Lama
Posts: 2,589
Casino Cash: $92036
Sportbike: Stool in front of my computer
After spending a bunch of time looking at it, and looking at parts that I can get, it's going to be a much cleaner install going with option 1 (although a different design than that). If I can get into my buddies machine shop this weekend to do some welding, I should have it done by the end of the weekend...
__________________
Aaron - Former FZ6 Elitist - Former R1 Newb
For Sale: Alpinestars Venom 2-pc leather Racing Suit $750 obo
"In the practice of tolerance, one's enemy is the best teacher." - The 14th Dalai Lama
Yeah, I need to take a good look at the bike to see what the back side of the frame looks like. I'd like to come up with a solution that involves using the behind the frame shift linkage, and doesn't require modding any stock parts (ie. cutting the shift lever).
There may be another solution: if there is enough of a gap between the frame and the engine/trans, the ball joint on the back side of the shift lever could be pushed inward, to clear the frame. I don't think there's enough room for this though.
I'm going to take a good look when I get home tonight and make a decision about which route I'm going to attack.
Okay, took a look and there's not a lot of room behind the frame. So this leads me back to my original thinking, there are 2 options I see without modding any stock parts.
1) Cheap - get a longer threaded rod (by roughly 2") and bend it into an 'L' shape. Then reinforce the bend somehow. This may have a tendancy to want to flex to either side, either hitting the frame, or the engine, but the heim joint might just be stiff enough to keep it in place.
2) Less cheap - duplicate the rizoma setup. I just like the thought of this a lot better, so that's what I'll try and do. If anyone has a lead on the threaded rod, heim joints, and an idler arm, please let me know!
Well...after my first track day yesterday, I can officially say that my set back plates have been officially crash tested. I was having trouble with my gear all day. I've gained a few pounds (probably 10 or 15) since I last wore my suit, and I was unaccustomed to wearing the Dainese back protector I picked up on Friday night and this set up was causing me all kinds of problems with my helmet and seeing glasses. The race hump on my AGV suit was pushing around my helmet and cutting into my vision. I couldn't keep sight of direction and turn indicators. First time out, I nearly highsided and decided leave the session early to try to remedy my helmet situation. Second time out, my helmet was a bit better after I got my suit & back protector adjusted, but helmet and glasses were still causing me problems. I left the session after two laptops, to again try to fix my helmet situation. I argued with my girlfriend about removing my glasses and she insisted that I keep them. So I did and it cost me. I did two great laps and my tires are starting to get warm. Turns 1 and 2 are hard fast chicane turns you can almost straighten out and then sweep out across into a fast turn 3 into a hard short turn 4 that makes a mini chicane. But I lost my sight again and ran turn 3 wide stood up the bike to run over turn 4 infield, slowed down, and then grabbed a little front brake as it got squirrely and thats when the front end slipped out on me.
I have pics and video and I'll post them up when I get them processed, hopefully later today or tomorrow morning.
I'm almost perfectly fine and so is the bike. I just have bruise on my left shin and a little soreness on my right side from landing on it at about 15 MPH. The bike has a new dent from the starter on the gas but it is otherwise in the same shape it was before. I even took the bike afterwards to the Inhouse Suspension trailer and had it's suspension set to my weight. They told me the geometry was pretty good (with forks up 0.5") but the rear needed to be taller to cut tighter corners at my weight. They bumped up the preload 3 clicks on the rear and made minor adjustments to the compression and rebound elsewhere. Other than dust, the right set back plate took the action well and only the right rear peg shows a new bend in its shape.
Clicks on the preload? Turns? Just trying to figure out if we have the exact same shock. I was adjusting mine on Saturday and had a hell of a time getting the adjustment tool in there...no to mention the first ring is plastic and the locking ring is really soft metal.
I'm almost perfectly fine and so is the bike. I just have bruise on my left shin and a little soreness on my right side from landing on it at about 15 MPH. The bike has a new dent from the starter on the gas but it is otherwise in the same shape it was before. I even took the bike afterwards to the Inhouse Suspension trailer and had it's suspension set to my weight. They told me the geometry was pretty good (with forks up 0.5") but the rear needed to be taller to cut tighter corners at my weight. They bumped up the preload 3 clicks on the rear and made minor adjustments to the compression and rebound elsewhere. Other than dust, the right set back plate took the action well and only the right rear peg shows a new bend in its shape.
Is your helmet loose on your head? It shouldn't be shifting on your head! Could've tried a beanie hat to prevent what I think you're describing.
No part out. You're about the helmet being loose. I guess I've worn in the padding and the hump shifting it. :/ I guess an new HJC or Scorpion is in my future.
Clicks on the preload? Turns? Just trying to figure out if we have the exact same shock. I was adjusting mine on Saturday and had a hell of a time getting the adjustment tool in there...no to mention the first ring is plastic and the locking ring is really soft metal.
You're right. They had a hell of a time too with the placement of the tray.
Okay, took a look and there's not a lot of room behind the frame. So this leads me back to my original thinking, there are 2 options I see without modding any stock parts.
NESBA #264
Linear Mode
