Sport Bikes banner

My take on a fender eliminator.

5K views 16 replies 11 participants last post by  Haraiianpunch 
#1 ·
Ok.

Here is my take on removing the god-awful plastics that Yammi uses to attach the plate and rear signals.

Cost: $23.50

Parts:

1) Lockhart Phillips Bike-night turn signals: $20.

link: Cycle Gear - LOCKHART-PHILIPS: Bike Night Turn Signals

2) 4x6 nail plate for construction work from hw store: $0.50.

3) Crimp disconnect connections m/f x6: $3.00

4) Zip ties.


I used a 4x6 plate from the HW store as the bracket. These are about $0.50 a piece, they are thin galvanized steel to resist rusting. They come predrilled with a matrix of holes in them, intended to be used to hammer nails through when assembling a house (you can mate two joists together with a plate like this).

I guess the thing that is different with this design, is that the Lockhart signals I used are designed to mount directly to the license plate...not to a bracket.

That simplifies the bracket design, since the bracket only has to hold the plate and the signals mount to the plate.

I will be using a single LED light to light the plate...currently the plate is not lit, so no night rides for me until I get that sorted out.

Here you go...this is just about the cheapest way to eliminate your fender plastics....took me all of 30 minutes.

PICS:







 
See less See more
4
#3 ·
I went back and forth about the mounting for a while, here is what I thought of:

Upper mount: Higher up, less prone to getting snagged on something.

Lower mount: Farther from the brake light = larger rear profile to be seen.

So, I went with the lower mount anyway...but I may move them up and see how I like them there.

I just really like the design of these rear signals...mounting them directly to the plate makes so much sense...too bad only ONE company is making signals this way.
 
#4 ·
i had those signals on FAZR6's FE. They just didnt feel right as the tail light above it made it seem too low/long for an FE. But yours is a really good setup. got any pics of it from underneath to see how it's mounted? I'm getting in one of integrated tails from a guy on the forum, and I was thinking about cleaning up the rear as it would seem too long with FAZR6's kit. Also you can look into top license plate bolts with leds that light up your plate. I think they're about $20 from a local cyclegear.
 
#5 ·
Sure, I'll take some more pics and post them...so you can see how I did the bracket.

My thing now is trying to figure out what to do about lighting for the plate.

I am either going to do the $10 solution and just mount a little LED on the plate bracket.

Or the $20 solution of lighted bolts (I think this is my favorite so far).

Or the $30 solution is to get a lighted plate bracket.

I dunno...I'll post more pics soon.
 
#7 ·
They are slightly less bright than the stock signals, but yes, they are still quite visible.

I am not worried, because I have taken a lot of other steps to make my bike visible to cars....but I might go in and replace the bulbs with super bright LEDs as a future addition to this mod.

The yamaha undertail bracket that the original fender plastics bolt to, has a really stupid design quirk. There are two bolts, spaced exactly 2.75" apart from center to center, but next to the left hand bolt (as you are sitting on the bike) is an indentation in the bracket. The indentation was to prevent the wires from rubbing on the bracket, but the result is that you cannot just bolt a flat plate to the bottom of the bracket. You will either have to use washers to space the plate out from the indentation, or mod the plate by removing metal where the indentation is. I chose the second path, and I cut a small "V" out of the plate with my band saw, took me all of 2 minutes.

You can't see the side with the cut out "V" from this pic though.




Here is a pic from beneath, so you can see the bracket.
 
#9 ·
Yeah, I was going to use two L brackets like you were...but then I saw those plates...and I am pretty sure that this design will vibrate a lot less.

Plus...when you can buy two of those plates (one extra in case you mess up) for $1.00....you can't lose in trying this method.
 
#10 ·
Nice... simple, clean! Great innovation!
 
#15 ·
I'd be interested in a video or something of those turn signals... just how bright are they etc.
 
#17 ·
More pics?

Ok.

Here is my take on removing the god-awful plastics that Yammi uses to attach the plate and rear signals.

Cost: $23.50

Parts:

1) Lockhart Phillips Bike-night turn signals: $20.

link: Cycle Gear - LOCKHART-PHILIPS: Bike Night Turn Signals


2) 4x6 nail plate for construction work from hw store: $0.50.

3) Crimp disconnect connections m/f x6: $3.00

4) Zip ties.


I used a 4x6 plate from the HW store as the bracket. These are about $0.50 a piece, they are thin galvanized steel to resist rusting. They come predrilled with a matrix of holes in them, intended to be used to hammer nails through when assembling a house (you can mate two joists together with a plate like this).

I guess the thing that is different with this design, is that the Lockhart signals I used are designed to mount directly to the license plate...not to a bracket.

That simplifies the bracket design, since the bracket only has to hold the plate and the signals mount to the plate.

I will be using a single LED light to light the plate...currently the plate is not lit, so no night rides for me until I get that sorted out.

Here you go...this is just about the cheapest way to eliminate your fender plastics....took me all of 30 minutes.

PICS:







Hey man. This sounds like a perfect set up. Wondering if you could post these pics again? It looks like they've been deleted and I think it'll really help me understand how you put this together.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top