Cracked Oil cleaner cover

thatguyx · 09-01-2007, 02:32 PM

lately my bike has been flashing the oil light, so today i wanted to fix it. well i was changing the oil and after i finished i ran the bike to check for leaking oil... well it leaks. the oil cleaner cover near the drain plug has an inch long crack in it. F*ck. i used my torque wrench as usual, still dunno how or why it cracked.

Are there any temporary fixes I can use to get the bike running until the new strainer and gasket arrive? (i know i shouldnt ride it, but due to family circumstances it's all i got for now) Maybe some JB weld or something? I ordered the new parts because I'm hoping to get it all fixed ASAP. and no dealer won't cover it since I was doing the oil change.

CpjMech · 09-01-2007, 02:39 PM

HUH??? Any pics?

segue00 · 09-01-2007, 04:02 PM

I don't know if the crack happened from you over-torquing the plug, but I don't ever use a torque wrench on oil changes. Tighten it by hand and just give it a 1/4 turn using a fresh crush washer. You're just preventing leaks and plug back-off. Torquing to spec by the manual seems like every fastener is dry and accounts for metal stiction. Less torque is advisable when the faster or a washer is re-used and or have a trace of lube in the threads.

thatguyx · 09-01-2007, 04:52 PM

well, after talking to some guys at work, i can get someone to weld the crack for free (with a tip), but i can't get the damn oil pan off.

i followed the service manual, took off the headers, left the water pump on and then undid all the bolts. but it wont budge. do i have to smack it with a rubber mallet really hard? I can't find any points to pry it open.

FZSilver · 09-01-2007, 04:53 PM

Did you crack the oil pan or the lower crankcase?

thatguyx · 09-01-2007, 05:00 PM

oil pan. the crack is right next to the drain plug hole.

here's a pic from the service manual, the red line is the crack

Gosling1 · 09-01-2007, 05:47 PM

You may have to get a soft faced mallet (rubber hammer) and tap it all around. Just don't pry on it. Take your time taking it apart and putting it back together.

thatguyx · 09-01-2007, 06:00 PM

after looking at the picture intensely for another 5 minutes, i realized that there is one bolt i missed. i didn't notice it because it was really recessed into the oil pan. it's off now... but the guy who can weld it is closed. sigh, hopefully it'll be running by tuesday/wednesday.

the crack itself is in a bitch place to weld. i dont know if he can get it to from the inside and may have to just weld it on the outside. either way i hope it holds. beats spending 70 on a new oil pan.

thanks for the answers.

BlueZ6 · 09-01-2007, 07:13 PM

I posted this a few months ago. Look at the 9th post in the thread. You have the exact same problem I had.
Caution on using a torque wrench on the oil drain plug

I think you over-tightened the plug like I did. I had the dealer replace the oil cleaner pan. I had the extended warranty, and although it really was my fault, Yamaha offered to pay for ("good-will") the part, which is around $100. I paid for the labor. I felt that was a reasonable compromise. I was prepared to argue with them about it, because the pan should never crack. Threads should strip out before it ever cracks the pan. My opinion, especially after hearing your story, is they have a design flaw there. The casting seam is a weak spot.

I might have tried replacing it myself if I could find the part cheap on ebay, but no luck. Since I have the YES, I really believe that should cover something.

You might want to try talking the dealer into giving you the part, because it should NOT have cracked. Especially if your bike is less than a year old.
Good Luck.

FZSilver · 09-01-2007, 07:44 PM

I think Yamaha is making a mistake by listing it at 31 Ft-Lbs. 31 is the general spec for a 17mm bolt in the yamaha manual. A drain plug really isn't in the same league as a 17mm that actually holds something together. most GSXR's for example have the same size drain plug and the torque rating is around 15 Ft-Lbs. 31 is just to high for aluminum threads that get torqued that often.

BlueZ6 · 09-01-2007, 08:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FZSilver

I think Yamaha is making a mistake by listing it at 31 Ft-Lbs. 31 is the general spec for a 17mm bolt in the yamaha manual. A drain plug really isn't in the same league as a 17mm that actually holds something together. most GSXR's for example have the same size drain plug and the torque rating is around 15 Ft-Lbs. 31 is just to high for aluminum threads that get torqued that often.

+1. Snug tight by hand using a plastic washer or new crush washer is what they should be telling people. I'd love to know how many people have also cracked the pan or just stripped the threads. Sounds like a good topic for a poll...

aplmv · 09-01-2007, 11:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BlueZ6

+1. I'd love to know how many people have also cracked the pan or just stripped the threads. Sounds like a good topic for a poll...

I cracked the pan and had it replaced. It was about $40 somewhere on Internet. I kept on riding until I got the parts... Oil was dripping a little and I remember checking oil level every day.

thatguyx · 09-13-2007, 12:44 AM

parts are almost all here. just waiting on a new gasket.

is there anything special way to mount the gasket and put it all back together? It's not like an oil filter where i gotta rub some oil on it? Do I need to get a gasket sealer or just torque it down properly?

mbodell · 09-13-2007, 07:28 AM

You could probably jb weld it if your friend can't do it.

thatguyx · 09-13-2007, 08:57 AM

i was thinking about jb welding it, but the crack goes through the thread of the drain plug, so i decided to be safe and get a new pan.

so do i need some kind of sealant like RTV or can I just put the gasket in between and torque it all down to spec correctly?