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Old 06-13-2007, 05:55 PM   4 links from elsewhere to this Post. Click to view. #1 (permalink)
Gosling1
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Default Fliiped Shifter

Why did I flip my shifter to give me 1 up and 5 down. No real reason, just wanted to. And I was off my bike for almost a month and lots of time to sit and think up things to do.

I wanted to leave the linkage inside the frame but I couldn't figure out a way to do that with out making some bends that might weaken the linkage. As soon as school starts in the fall I'll be trying to get the linkage back inside he frame. I'll have access to CAD and other shop tools.

I did make one unecessary cut while tinkering with this. After I made the cut I realized the joint is peened in place. Take care removing it, if you mess it up and don't have any spares you just may be screwed. I bought a whole shift assembly just in case I buggered this up.

The shift lever was shortened about two or three inches. It took a bit of work to get it so it felt comfortable for me. I'm still messing with the adjustments so the final welding and coating isn't done.

As of now my toes rest comfortably on the shifter. To shift all I have to do is move my foot down a bit and boom next gear. It does take some getting used to. I messed up a few shifts the first few days after I made the changes.

Hopefully the pics explain it better than I just did.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Drawing.jpg (23.6 KB, 291 views)
File Type: jpg Shifter.jpg (101.6 KB, 9 views)
File Type: jpg shifter close up.jpg (57.8 KB, 7 views)
File Type: jpg shifter top view.jpg (59.2 KB, 5 views)
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Old 06-13-2007, 06:10 PM   #2 (permalink)
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cool. very nice diagrams and instructions!!!!!
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Old 06-13-2007, 06:51 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Thanks for posting this. I was wondering how you did it. I am trying to find a rearsets that will flip it without having to custom make a shift rod. I am too much of a knit picky sob to do it this way. Not using the origianl routing would bother me. (OCD, I guess) Does the shifter arm on the engine hit the frame the way you have it?
I was thinking that I might try to mount a plate onto the metal foot guard that would invert it and also allow the rod to pass through the frame. I might do this until I get new rear sets in a few weeks.
Did you try anything like this or do you think it will work.
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Old 06-13-2007, 07:07 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Not sure if that would work. But I'll keep that in mind!

There is about .115"/2.9mm clearance between the frame and the linkage.
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Old 04-06-2008, 08:31 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Thanks for the photos and giving me this link. I see what you mean...time to go to the garage again!
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Old 04-06-2008, 08:34 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I have yet to clean it up a bit, but it works for me. I have a spare shifter I may tinker with some one day. I might do it the day I do my 50,000 mile check up.
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Old 04-07-2008, 12:59 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Very cool, inventive and informative. Thanks!
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Old 04-07-2008, 01:05 PM   #8 (permalink)
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GP shift! cool
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Old 04-15-2008, 10:22 PM   #9 (permalink)
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That one part that is peened in place...I'm trying to rack my brain...there's gotta be a better way to put it back together other than welding it. Can anyone think of anything?
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Old 04-15-2008, 10:38 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PCHbreeze View Post
That one part that is peened in place...I'm trying to rack my brain...there's gotta be a better way to put it back together other than welding it. Can anyone think of anything?
Could you straighten the shifter and leave that piece in place?
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Old 04-15-2008, 11:21 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davidsa1 View Post
Could you straighten the shifter and leave that piece in place?
GREAT idea! It's aluminum and I adjusted that one just for foot setting/comfort and adjusted the brake lever by hand also. I'm sure that'll work if its apart and in a vice. I would have to take a look at it when I get my bike back to see if its enough clearance but if it is, david, you just earned a beer from every future do-er of this mod
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Old 04-16-2008, 07:56 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PCHbreeze View Post
That one part that is peened in place...I'm trying to rack my brain...there's gotta be a better way to put it back together other than welding it. Can anyone think of anything?
You can replace that ball joint with an aftermarket left hand thread M6 ball joint, and just bolt it in place.

try McMaster-Carr and type in product number 6275K63

It's $9.34 and the left hand threads would mate it up to the stock shift rod no problem...
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Old 04-16-2008, 08:08 AM   #13 (permalink)
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You could also replace the shift arm (trans shaft side) with one from an FZ1. They are cast aluminum with a threaded hole to secure the ball joint. You could flip it either side. The FZ1 arms can be picked up cheap as many have switched to R1 arms. Hope this is remotely helpful.
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