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FZ6If you’re looking for one bike to perform a multitude of missions, look no further.
Take it from Cycle World* Magazine - “For a more advanced rider looking for a bike to do it all, there is no other choice.”
Posts: 80
Casino Cash: $250
Sportbike: Currently a Triumph America
Help. I dont understand why FZ6 died.
Bike is a 2005 with 1300 miles. Bought it used at 1,000 miles.
I rode into the city parked all day and it started right up for home. Then on the way back I hit a lot of stop and go traffic for at least 1/2 hour.
I then stopped for coffee for another 1/2 hour and fired right up np for a 5 minute ride home.
I ride into the drive way and stop. The bike died and I thought I stalled it. I tried starting it up. The odometer panel comes up normally, and the blinkers work bright.
It makes that starter sound click click click and just stops.
I have running turn signals. Is it possible the battery got discharged just because I was riding in stop and go traffic? Why did it start for the 5 minute home? Is the alternator not strong enough to keep the battery charged?
Sorry for the long description, but I am confused as to why this would happen.
Im going to charge the battery but now I just want to know that our bikes are not so sensitive to riding in cities.
Sounds like your stop and go prognosis might be correct. Either bump start it or jump start it and go out for a ride keeping the RPM's up or get the battery charger out and charge it up over night and then give it a try in the morning
If I get really stuck in traffic, I pull the clutch in often and rev it away... people think I'm just being a jerk showing off but oh well. I'm not sure it actually does enough good to matter but I guess it doesn't matter.
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R6 Forks, Calipers, Master Cylinder / Galfer SS Front Lines / Two Brothers M2 VALE Polished Aluminum Exhaust / Yamaha Chin Fairing / PUIG Race Windscreen / TCP Aerodynamics Painted Hugger & Chain Guard / FAZR6 FE / FS6 Frame Sliders / Watsen Design LED R1 Flushmount Signals / Garmin StreetPilot 2610 + RAM Mount / Corbin Saddle
"There are 10 kinds of people in this world, those who know binary, and those who don't."
Use frame sliders. One never knows when a cripple is about.
Hey, Jay - me too. In very slow rush hour traffic I stay in a super-low gear so the rev's stay over 5000 rpms.
ImOK:
I have read that a dead battery can't be fully recharged by running the engine at high rpms; instead they say that only a trickle charger will fully restore the battery.
Also, a battery can't be reliably diagnosed for having low voltage merely by confirming the operation of the lights. However, if the headlights were used for the test and run for 5 or 10 minutes then that might confirm it - but now your killing the battery even more - so don't use that test either.
I bought a super-small voltmeter (multimeter) which I carry with some basic tools in my tail bag. That is the only reliable test. I believe a healthy battery should be at least 12.5 volts. If the voltage is below 12.0 volts than this constitutes an exhausted battery, and the starter motor is too weak to turn over the motor. Time to bump start her.
Battery type = Lead acid
Over-discharge, danger = 10.5 V
At dormancy = 12.5 V
Charging, min = 13.5 V
Charging, max = 14.5 V
Over-charging, danger = 14.8 V
Posts: 80
Casino Cash: $250
Sportbike: Currently a Triumph America
What an ordeal getting to the battery. I have to get extra battery tender dongles from somewhere.
Also how do I stand up the fuel tank? There are a bunck of hoses plugged in to it. Are the two hoses for airvents? Can I unplug them? On my Triumph I turn the fuel valve off, I remove the gas tank , put it on the ground and work away.
Still, I am upset that just being stuck in traffic would discharge the battery. My car doesn't do it. My other bike doesnt have that problem either.
I have lost confidence in an otherwise nice bike. And I specifically bought it to ride in the city because its light weight. There are enough problems when you are riding to also worry that your battery is not being charged. Is this a known issue with the FZ6?
What an ordeal getting to the battery. I have to get extra battery tender dongles from somewhere.
Also how do I stand up the fuel tank? There are a bunck of hoses plugged in to it. Are the two hoses for airvents? Can I unplug them? On my Triumph I turn the fuel valve off, I remove the gas tank , put it on the ground and work away.
Still, I am upset that just being stuck in traffic would discharge the battery. My car doesn't do it. My other bike doesnt have that problem either.
I have lost confidence in an otherwise nice bike. And I specifically bought it to ride in the city because its light weight. There are enough problems when you are riding to also worry that your battery is not being charged. Is this a known issue with the FZ6?
To check the voltage alone, I pull out the license plate light bulb (which is always illuminated) and place the probes on the terminates.
Most of us that have battery tenders (trickle chargers) have the included leads connected directly to the battery - under the tank. Then leave the connector dangling near the radiator.
To access the battery, the tank needs to be raised. The manual says the front side panels must first be removed; this is possible but not necessary. To keep on the panels, instead you need to remove the hing pin at the rear of the tank, as seen underneath the seat. Watch out the the tank doesn't fall on the fall, since it is no longer attached to the bike. I use this method, so that the tank is slid back, then tilted up. Once tilted up, reinsert the hing bolt and your safe. I hold the tank in its raised, tilted posture by tieing a cord to the front of the tank fitting and extending it to the rear grab rails. Obvious and easy.
Ya, go with a battery charger. It is great for when the bike sits a few months through the winter without any self-charging.
This is not a known problem with the FZ6, as far as I have read. It has never happened to me but your diagnosis suggests this may have been the cause. If your battery is low, then my guess is it may have gotten this way from winter inactivity (has it been ridden the past few months regularly - weekly?).
I wouldn't sweat it. Check your voltage. If low, get a charger and charge it up. Then check the voltage with a meter for the next couple of weeks. It is continues to be low, then you need a new battery. Otherwise, after a few weeks forget about this ordeal and move on to problems with your tires, etc.
Actually it sounds like a bad cell in the battery than a low or undercharged battery.
I know you have low miles and the battery shouldn't go bad but they do...both on cars and bikes.
I have this friend whose battery went bad with less than 500 miles on his new bike.
+1
I ride in traffic all the time. Short runs, low rpm. I even shut it off at long stoplights pretty often and refire to run to the next light. My battery has never needed more than 30 minutes (and usually more like 10) on the trickle charger to be at full capacity. I think a bad cell is a good guess.
The FZ6 has a puny little alternator (about 320W at 5,000rpm). Stop and Go traffic can kill it. It is so darn sensitive, I'm using a voltmeter just to see when I'm discharging the battery. Last weekend, it took the battery tender four hours to top off the battery after an hour of go fast driving with high beams, grip heaters, and heated vest. I was discharging the whole time and I was keeping the revs over 5,000 when moving.
Yes... the alternator is a wee bit undersized. But with only 92hp at the rear wheel, I guess Yamaha didn't want to take an extra 300Watts away from the rider's acceleration ability.
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Life is too short to live slow.
I don't know. I've been riding only VERY short trips in traffic on mine since August, and I've never used a charger. I've had no battery problems. ImOk wasn't running all that gear, so the alternator shouldn't be the problem. ImOk, what's your usual RPM in the city?
I think Jay might be onto something, letting it get up to 5K as much as possible.
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"This is truly a 'do it all' bike!" -FizzySix
Stuff: dual headlights, HardRacing FE, GIVI 46N, Motovation sliders, camera mount Wishlist: Givi brake lights, pod lights, modulating brake lights, fork oil replacement, heated grips, fuel cell, engine guard, 'Stich suit, cup holder, Jen fan-club patch
I don't have a problem when I only add 35W (grip heaters or vest or heated gloves). I am comfortable running an added 70W (vest and grip heaters) and cutting off equipment at stoplights. The 105W (grips, vest, and gloves) will drain the battery even at keepiing all moving revs over 5k and cutting stuff off at stoplights.
You don't use all the cr*p in LA do you?? Here's your chance to explain the importance of Location, Location, Location when deciding where to live (and ride!)
(signed in cold blood (very cold))
Snap
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Life is too short to live slow.
Posts: 298
Casino Cash: $6037
Sportbike: 2008 ZZR 600 in Blue
I ride in stop and go traffic all the time. I have the dual light mod as well as pod lights. I've never had a battery issue. I do make sure that I never turn on my heated grips unless I'm running at least 5000 rpm. With a little over 2 years in service, I fully expect the battery to start giving me issues this summer when it gets really hot.
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SOLD--2004 FZ6 (Silver). Sold after 75,100 trouble free miles.
2008 ZZR 600 Plasma Blue. So far just grip puppies.
The FZ6 has a puny little alternator (about 320W at 5,000rpm). Stop and Go traffic can kill it. It is so darn sensitive, I'm using a voltmeter just to see when I'm discharging the battery. Last weekend, it took the battery tender four hours to top off the battery after an hour of go fast driving with high beams, grip heaters, and heated vest. I was discharging the whole time and I was keeping the revs over 5,000 when moving.
Yes... the alternator is a wee bit undersized. But with only 92hp at the rear wheel, I guess Yamaha didn't want to take an extra 300Watts away from the rider's acceleration ability.
1 Hp = 750 Watts
A larger alternator wouldn't really cut into our available horsepower, would it? My guess is Yamaha was saving on cost of parts.