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FZ6If you’re looking for one bike to perform a multitude of missions, look no further.
Take it from Cycle World* Magazine - “For a more advanced rider looking for a bike to do it all, there is no other choice.”
I want to know how much power is available for accessories under stock conditions. I don't have a dual-light mod - just a stock setup. Have I interpretted your data correctly, as it might pertain to us "stock" guys:
a) Minimum demand taken by FZ6 while running with stock setup (low beam):
12.2V, 15A = 183 W
b) Charging capacity of alternator above 2200 rpm:
14.0V, 22A = 308 W
c) Thus, power available to accessories:
308 - 183 = 125 W
d) Thus, current available to accessories:
(125 W) / (14.0 V) = 9 A
Note, this is not consistent with your #3 conclusions, which would suggest for a stock bike:
e) (45 W) + ((18-15 A) * (14 V) = 87 W .. (Compare with my #c)
Well...I think that I haven't made something clear. At a point between about 1100 and 1500 RPM the battery transistions from discharge to charge. It was very difficult to hold the engine speed steady enough to look at 2 different ammeters and get a precise value for each. However it is clear that the regulator output quickly rose just off of idle and maxed out @2200 RPM. With the engine speed above 2200 I operated high beams, 4-way flashers and brake lights. Voltage dipped somewhat (I didn't write down the value) but alternator output was a CONSTANT 22A.
Remember all of my measurements at the fuse block include 55W additonal load of the dual headlight mod even at low beam. And, I stayed low with my estimate of available wattage because of variations due to heat, battery health, manufacturing tolerances and contact between terminals at various points. As they say, YMMV!
If needed I could make another load test at the fuse block to get current readings with different loads. However I don't believe that the regulator output needs to be retraced as it has a definitive peak.
BTW, thanks to all for the kind words. I try to give back some of what I have taken from this board.
__________________
John
"I was too drunk to walk home so I drove."
-Unknown
Last edited by Moldmaker : 04-03-2006 at 05:33 PM.
I am in partial agreement. With a ligher load, the alternator will develop less physical resistance and it will be easier to turn - thus unburdening the engine load a bit.
However, the alternator is rated for 310 W (reportedly), so this would be the max output.
The amp rating is for continuous load and only the voltage is regulated. There can be a substantial amp gain if the alternator is forced to produce more towards maximum of 14.7 volts.
Well...I think that I haven't made something clear. At a point between about 1100 and 1500 RPM the battery transistions from discharge and charge. It was very difficult to hold the engine speed steady enough to look at 2 different ammeters and get a precise value for each. However it is clear that the regulator output quickly rose just off of idle and maxed out @2200 RPM. With the engine speed above 2200 I operated high beams, 4-way flashers and brake lights. Voltage dipped somewhat (I didn't write down the value) but alternator output was a CONSTANT 22A.
Remember all of my measurements at the fuse block include 55W additonal load of the dual headlight mod even at low beam. And, I stayed low with my estimate of available wattage because of variations due to heat, battery health, manufacturing tolerances and contact between terminals at various points. As they say, YMMV!
If needed I could make another load test at the fuse block to get current readings with different loads. However I don't believe that the regulator output needs to be retraced as it has a definitive peak.
BTW, thanks to all for the kind words. I try to give back some of what I have teaken from this board.
We all try to learn from each other. Thanks for sharing your knowledge, time and effort.
would be cutting it close. I killed my battery using them on my Triumph Bonneville which rates the alternator at 27A and the battery at 12V-10Ah (I guess this means it would take one hour at 10Amps draw to discharge the battery).
I find it amazing that bike manufacturers insist on such close tolerances and give no wiggle room for additional electronics. Dont they want us riding in the winter?
Non-electric hand warmer- I can vouch that these little suckers cook. I dozed off with mine touching my bare arm, and ended up with a blister. One of these in your pocket could reduce demand for electric gear!
I think it was bought at Rejuvenation or somesuch.
I know I'm getting into this conversation late, and truth be told I don't quite understand much of the technical talk in this thread, but I do get the 2200 rpm thing.
This is my question.... Does starting in cold temperature require more battery draw? This is why; Charged my battery fully 2 weeks ago when I took the bike out of it's winter hibernation. I take a lot of short trips. Doing home reno's so haven't started the bike in 3 days. This morning, -1 degree C, click click, minivan to work. This evening, much warmer, started ok.
I'm left confused; Is it simply a weakened battery not being able to deal with the cold?
I've lifted that damn tank once too often and I'm not happy about it. Going to search out battery tender leads tomorrow.
This is just a thought, but make sure if you are going to ride in stop and go conditions, that you don't have your high beams on. I have seen that kill a few bikes.
I know I'm getting into this conversation late, and truth be told I don't quite understand much of the technical talk in this thread, but I do get the 2200 rpm thing.
This is my question.... Does starting in cold temperature require more battery draw? This is why; Charged my battery fully 2 weeks ago when I took the bike out of it's winter hibernation. I take a lot of short trips. Doing home reno's so haven't started the bike in 3 days. This morning, -1 degree C, click click, minivan to work. This evening, much warmer, started ok.
I'm left confused; Is it simply a weakened battery not being able to deal with the cold?
I've lifted that damn tank once too often and I'm not happy about it. Going to search out battery tender leads tomorrow.
Cold weather slows down the chemical reaction that takes place inside a battery. That's why, at least for car batteries, they're rated with 'cold cranking amps'. That way, you know how much juice they have when they're cold. So yes, that makes sense, but it still sounds like your battery's on its way out.
__________________
Old enough to know better; still too young to care.
It's either keep the battery warm or automatically trickle charge it when it's cold outside. I've left the FZ6 out all winter with a trickle charger. It started everytime. I got the waterproof battery tender. Don't get any sophisticated/computerized/multi-function automatic chargers. They shut down when the ambient temperature dips down when you really need it to work.
I want to dwell on this issue cuz I have some long tours coming up. I'll be running some heavy electrical accessories, but I don't want to kill the battery in the middle of the Yukon some cold and dark night. It still amazes me if our FZ6 can only offer about 56 Watts (see below) for accessories, with low beam only. Turn on the highbeam (55 Watts), and the system only has 1 Watt to spare - this doesn't make sense.
OK, I have rerun my summary with your clarification. This is what I have, with disappointing low surplus power/current for accessories. This gives around 56 Watts of reserve power:
e) Current demand of stock FZ6 (with lowbeam only):
(252 W) / (14 V) = 18 A
f) Thus, power available to accessories:
308 - 252 = 56 W
g) Thus, current available to accessories:
( 56 W) / (14.0 V) = 4 A
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Here are my total accessories. However I don't run them all at once:
Heated grips = Amps 30
Heated vest = Amps 35
Power adapter = Amps 5
Total Demand = Amps 70
It looks like heated grips and heated vest will overload the system, and cause an eventual battery discharge. (If these numbers are right?)
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I have looked at another forum for the FZ1. Sure, that is a different bike but not too different. The FZ1's alternator can output 365 Watts compared to the FZ6's mere 308 Watts.
Skeleton, good work. The FZ-1 is not fuel injected, and our bike is - our fuel system uses more power, I don't know how much.
I have Oxford Heated Grips with an electronic controller and I drive with my high beam on most of the time (except when I think I might be irritating someone unnecessarily). After a ride with only the heated grips (35W max), the battery is fully charged.
If I wear my heated vest and gloves (70W on max), I draw down the battery no matter what I do. The trickle charger has to recharge the battery. So calculations aside, you have somewhere between 35W and 69W to spare and I suspect it is more like 35W (with high beams on).
I'm trying to decide if I want to convert all the running/tail/turn signals into LEDs (and try to find our flasher module since it probably isn't electronic).
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Life is too short to live slow.
Last edited by SnapRolls : 04-05-2006 at 04:21 AM.
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