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Old 11-30-2007, 10:49 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Voltmeter Installation

Lets face it… the FZ6 isn’t exactly known for its charging output. Since I’m running dual headlights, heated grips, my GPS… plus I want to be able to charge some extra do-dads while I ride (like my camera, cell phone, laptop, etc.), I was starting to get a bit paranoid about over-extending the charging system and battery. Rather than find out the hard way how much was too much, I decided to install a voltmeter. I chose the Datel Voltmeter from DigitalMeter.com, based on recommendations of others here on SBN.

What you’re going to need:

I ordered the red voltmeter (it’s also available in blue), and a mounting bezel. The total with shipping came to $53.50.



You’re going to need some wire and connectors. I also used some heat shrink tubing, but it’s completely optional.



Here is the wiring diagram from when I installed my heated grips. I used the extra connection point on the same relay I used while installing my heated grips. You will probably need to modify the wiring for your own application, but I wanted to add this for reference in case someone needed it. The voltmeter will have to be wired through a relay to a switched source so that it’s not on all the time, only when the bike is on. In the example wiring method below, the relay is connected to the headlights so the bike must be running before anything connected to the relay will function.



*** It is important to remember that to have an accurate reading you need to measure the voltage of the battery not the switched source ***

There are some good threads on the subject if you search the term: voltmeter
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Old 11-30-2007, 10:49 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Here is how I installed it:

I took a piece of masking tape and outlined the voltmeter so I would have a stencil for cutting into the fairing. I had originally placed the stencil closer to the bottom, and then realized later that I hadn’t accounted for the inward curve of the piece, so I had to adjust the installation location back a little. I also had to leave enough room to be able to reach the screw holes for the bezel. If you’re installing it without a bezel, you could probably get away with locating it further down.



I used a Dremel to cut the hole for the voltmeter, leaving a little room for error.



I then cleaned up the hole with a utility knife and used the rubber gasket to mark where the holes for the mounting bezel should go.



I then popped the voltmeter in (making sure it wasn’t upside down… that’s the type of silly mistake I would normally make) and attached the bezel. I measured the amount of wire I needed in order to reach the relay and then attached the appropriate connection types to each end of the wire.



After connecting it and testing that everything is working properly, you’re ready to reinstall the fairing and enjoy your mad electrical skillz!



A special thanks goes out to all the members here who answer my never ending questions about this stuff. You guys rock!
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Last edited by Lucky_Devil : 11-30-2007 at 11:01 PM.
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Old 12-01-2007, 01:44 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Props on the picturial tutorial, great job.
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Old 12-01-2007, 01:51 AM   #4 (permalink)
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+1 nice write up. jcasear should add to how-to's
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Old 12-01-2007, 11:28 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Great pictures. Someone finally posts the mod DIY after I did it myself.
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Old 12-01-2007, 12:32 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Glad you got in done without any problems. Looks nice, perhaps this will be my next mod.
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Old 12-01-2007, 12:44 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Awsome job - thanks!

Any idea how much of a draw the Datel would be if hooked directly to the battery and always on?
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Old 12-01-2007, 01:25 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Thanks for the positive feedback everyone

Quote:
Originally Posted by AugieNYC View Post
Awsome job - thanks!

Any idea how much of a draw the Datel would be if hooked directly to the battery and always on?
Good question, probably answered somewhere in the .pdf spec sheet I've attached.
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File Type: pdf pc0-dcms-MC.pdf (167.3 KB, 11 views)
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Old 12-01-2007, 01:40 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Nice job!

It's good to be able to glance down and know the battery isn't drawing down while the heated stuff is on.

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Old 02-04-2008, 02:09 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Only things different I did is I added a switch and a 12v power outlet so that I can turn off the outlet and the bright voltmeter when I need.

Since mbodell panned me for the wiring mess I created, I would like to see a picture of how the wiring is finished up beneath the tank and fairing. Pleasee !!
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Micron Full System|O2 Elim|Lars Airbox Mod|Ivan's FCE|BMC|CopperDawg Flies|HEL SS Lines,Speed Bleeders|ASV Black Shorties|Rizoma Rearsets|Sargent/Corbin Rider/Pillion|MRA Vario|Throttlemiester|Satan666 Highway Pegs|Reverse Retro Mirrors|Symtec Heated Grips|Marine Powerlet|Integrated Taillight|Arrow Signals|T-Rex Frame,Crashbobbins F/R Axle Sliders|Targa FE|Power Bronze Rear Fender
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