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Went on a quick ride and it's all solid and it looks great. The rpm shift light works perfectly too I need to play with the settings on the speedo for the speed (wheel circumference...), as I was getting about half the speed I should have... and the fuel tank settings needs adjustments too (gallons...) but that`s the easy part.
Thanks brotha! You need to finish yours up asap so I can over it
So I measured the circumference of my tire (used painter tape to the front wheel and taped around it, then measured ) and I got 1875mm. Plugged that into the speedo. Then I put 5 magnets in the rotor screw heads, and plugged that setting in the speedo too. Now I have perfect speed
Next I needed the resistor value of the fuel pump sensor, for the speedo setting, and figured out it is 100 Ohms from the manual. Is the reserve 20%?
Thanks brotha! You need to finish yours up asap so I can over it
So I measured the circumference of my tire (used painter tape to the front wheel and taped around it, then measured ) and I got 1875mm. Plugged that into the speedo. Then I put 5 magnets in the rotor screw heads, and plugged that setting in the speedo too. Now I have perfect speed
Next I needed the resistor value of the fuel pump sensor, for the speedo setting, and figured out it is 100 Ohms from the manual. Is the reserve 20%?
I think we have a 5.1 gal tank w/~0.91 gal reserve. It says it somewhere in the end of the manual.
Yeah I have 2 positives coming from the harness, but I thought I had covered that... I`ll double check
You should note how the OEM cluster is wired. Might give you a clue. Our OEM clock stays powered so the mechanism should be similar to this new cluster.
Bro I`ve been studying the wire harness and schematics of the OEM speedo for the past 2 days trying to get it all to work... matching wire colors, trying to understand what wire goes where This was actually my first question -a couple pages back-, worth $1000 cash
If you look at the koso instructions, and then the wire diagram, well... basically, it gets confusing
This was actually my first question -a couple pages back-, worth $1000 cash
Still waiting for my $1000 casino cash payment..J/K..You had it figured out before I got there.
I was just happy to see it in person and see the continued progress you make on your bike. Folks, this is a very unique FZ6, compared to my 100% stock 04.
We did discover one fact: the information that is displayed within the LCD section (RPM, MPH, temps, etc.) is encoded and transmitted down a SINGLE wire from the ECU to the meter. There is a steady 4.0V DC voltage across this Yellow/Blue wire to ground, so it has to be a PCM stream that contains all of the data.
__________________
John
"I was too drunk to walk home so I drove."
-Unknown
Still waiting for my $1000 casino cash payment..J/K..You had it figured out before I got there.
I was just happy to see it in person and see the continued progress you make on your bike. Folks, this is a very unique FZ6, compared to my 100% stock 04.
We did discover one fact: the information that is displayed within the LCD section (RPM, MPH, temps, etc.) is encoded and transmitted down a SINGLE wire from the ECU to the meter. There is a steady 4.0V DC voltage across this Yellow/Blue wire to ground, so it has to be a PCM stream that contains all of the data.
no kidding, I should give you ALL my cash Moldmaker! Your help was priceless.
Well I thought I figured out the 2 positives simply because the speedo started working after hooking all the loads (signals, high beam, neutral etc..) to it, but I may have them inverted... it may still work the same way except the speedo would still get juice from the battery to power the clock when the bike is off. I don`t know, the more I think about it, the more I am confused lol... guess I`ll just swap them and see what happens (I only have a fuse to lose)
Yeah that one yellow/blue wire was intriguing... lot of info for one wire.
So I also figure out the different timer options I can play with:
- "Target Speed Timer": basically, you set the desired speed on the speedo and initiate the timer at idle... as soon as your front wheel moves, the timer starts, and it stops when you reach that speed.
Example: Reached 100mph in 7.5 seconds.
- "Target Distance Timer": set the desired distance on the speedo and initiate the timer at idle. As soon as the front wheel moves, the timer will start, and automatically stop when you reach the distance.
Ex: 1/4 mile in 10.00 seconds.
- "Top Speed Test": this timer starts when you move the front wheel, and will stop when your speed decreases. It records everything for you: distance to top speed, time it took to get to top speed, max rpm, and what the top speed was. So if you take off and go all the way to 140mph and then let the throttle go, the time will stop as soon as you hit 139mph (or whenever your speed decreases).
Finally, I set the shift light at 13.5k rpm, which means the light becomes orange at 13k rpm, and red at 13.5k... the reason why I set it 500rpm before the redline is because when you`re WOT, that half a second reaction time + changing gear time after seeing the red light will get you to 14k I guess I could just shift when the light is orange, and keep it set for 14k... oh well...
I need to play with the settings on the speedo for the speed (wheel circumference...), as I was getting about half the speed I should have... and the fuel tank settings needs adjustments too (gallons...) but that`s the easy part.
over it 
no kidding, I should give you ALL my cash Moldmaker! Your help was priceless.
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