If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above.
You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed.
To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.
So I didnt see any thread with a "how-to" on frame sliders. So here goes with all the pics i took...
So first you will need the get some frame sliders. The ones i purchased were from Uncaged and arrived in a few days. They come with longer bolts, the mounting hardware and the tips which is the part that comes in contact (hopefully not) with the ground.
First you will need the correct Allen wrench size. I do not know the exact size of the allen due to the tool being old and without writing on it. I just dug through the drawers in my fathers chest til i found a fitting on. If you need, take the bolt in the kit to a local autoparts store. Most stores will let you borrow tools for a little while. the bolt was slightly tighter than hand tight, but not too tight.
take the new bolt and use the washer off of the old bolt for extra support.
insert into slider hardware and thread in by hand until flush, then tighten up to manufacturers specs.
With the uncaged sliders, you just have to thread in the slider ends and you are done with that side. repeat for the other side and you are done!!!
it took me a total of 10 minutes including finding tools, talking on phone, taking pictures and setting up lighting for pictures. if i was just doing the install itself, it would be a total of 2 minutes easy. DONT FORGET to do just one side at a time. if you remove both bolts at the same time, your engine might sag and make it hard to replace the bolts.
__________________
"Whatsoever thy hand findeth to do, do it with thy might;..." -Ecclesiastes 9:10
+1 for the photos & step-by-step comments, Eviloliv3! Let me just add just a couple of comments: 1) You may find it easier to slide a 1ft or so pipe or hollow jack handle over the allen wrench for added leverage; 2) I called Uncaged Cycles to ask whether any type of thread lock is needed --they said "no" -- just tighten the bolts to spec (as you said).
__________________
[I have absolutely NO affiliation of any kind, formal or informal, and I am not compensated in any way by any manufacturers or vendors of products that I may recommend (or criticize) in my posts here at SBN.]
HEY, IS THAT A BEEMER? ....NO, ACTUALLY IT'S WAY BETTER THAN A BEEMER!!! HERE'S THE DEAL: FLAUNTS PRESTIGE ....BUT DELIVERS PERFECTION!!!
+1 for the photos & step-by-step comments, Eviloliv3! Let me just add just a couple of comments: 1) You may find it easier to slide a 1ft or so pipe or hollow jack handle over the allen wrench for added leverage; 2) I called Uncaged Cycles to ask whether any type of thread lock is needed --they said "no" -- just tighten the bolts to spec (as you said).
+1 on the nice procedure with pics.
My comment: Be careful when putting a pipe, or "cheater" bar over the allen wrench. You'll strip those threads out faster than you can say butter! If your not using a torque wrench, go easy on them. Remember, the threads are aluminum.
__________________
'05 FZ1 Yamaha Blue
FZ6 Alumnus
+1 for the photos & step-by-step comments, Eviloliv3! Let me just add just a couple of comments: 1) You may find it easier to slide a 1ft or so pipe or hollow jack handle over the allen wrench for added leverage; 2) I called Uncaged Cycles to ask whether any type of thread lock is needed --they said "no" -- just tighten the bolts to spec (as you said).
well i actually took a small hammer and tapped at the end of the allen wrench. not hard, but enough to break it loose. when i noticed how easy it was to break free, i loosened the other side by hand. so there shouldnt be any need for a cheater bar.
as for the loc-tite comment, its more of peace of mind than anything, the stock bolts didnt have them on it, so i didnt think there was any need for there to be some on the new ones
__________________
"Whatsoever thy hand findeth to do, do it with thy might;..." -Ecclesiastes 9:10
__________________
Upgrades: frame-sliders, fend-elim, tcp seatcowl, pazzo levers, LED taillight w/int.turn signals, puig double bubble blue tint windscreen, K&N filter, Carbon Scorpion Exhaust, yamaha tankpad, flush turnsignals...
Drifting is a lifestyle, so live it sideways!
Quote:
Originally Posted by OFFICER737
gotta 7 way party bong at the sheriff's dept.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ivan_markII
When I treat the street as a racetrack I just pretend the cops are cornerworkers giving me the meatball.
Quote:
Originally Posted by lawson
ok, here is what you do you ready for this ok lets get down to business you gotta get a bunch of stuff for this you go to the grocery store get a jar of pickles some mayonnaise cheeze wizz crackers some milk and a thing of ketchup you bring all of that to your friends girlfriends house then u bend her over and fuck her in the ass as hard and fast as you can.
yup, thats my Dad's Camaro, good job on knowing the year too
Piece of cake - '69 was the only year they put that crease over and behind the fenders. '67 didn't have the side marker lights which were added in '68. The 70's models were a different body style (I liked the Firebirds better in those years).
__________________ The police never think it's as funny as you thought at the time
Last edited by Greg in H-Town : 02-07-2007 at 10:13 PM.
What exactly is manufacturers specs? I just bought a 04 fz6 and i dont have the manual. does it have to be torqued properly using a torque wrench, or can i use just the allen key?