Hi There,

Looking for some help on this one. I have checked all the wiring but don't want to rip into the harnesses just yet. I have the four turn signal/running lights working and I have voltage across the fuse. Any ideas as to why these wouldn't be coming on? I checked the lights themselves and they have continuity across the connectors. No lights on the dash either and i notice these are on the same circuit.

Any ideas or anyone else have this problem? I am thinking of pulling the hi/lo switch apart next.

the Z has around 30k on it now and for some reason she has been really hard to start lately, I don't think it only has to do with the cold because it has progressively gotten worse before the weather got cold.

when I go to start the bike (moreso when it hasn't been started yet that day), it turns over more slowly then usual and won't even started for like 10 seconds or so. could it be the starter or something more expensive? I leave it on a tender usually and I know the battery is fully charged, could it just not be putting out enough?

I have an 06 gixxer k6 and I stripped the shit out of these bolts trying to get them off:



They're only supposed to be torqued to 7 ft-lb per the service manual. But with their thread lock and the fact that they haven't been touched since mfg of this motorcycle they're practically welded in there.

They have a 4mm hex head which is tiny and didn't stand a chance with the force to get these off. I rounded the hole and the hex grip is gone.

Now I dremeled a nice slit to fit a flathead screw driver, but these fuckers won't budge. The flathead is stripping the slit and I can't get any leverage. They're mangled now and I think it's time for a screw extraction.

So 3 questions:

1) Does anyone have the size spec of these screw threads (width, length & thread)? Specifically the width so I know what size extractor bit to use.

2) Do you agree that it's time for a screw extract? What product is best and where to buy? EZ out? Home Depot? Auto store?

3) Extra opinions on this matter

:comp FUUUUUUUUUCK! :comp

Newbie here who is trying to start with simple things. I have a '08 CBR600 and want to put CRG Hindsight mirrors on it. I started with just the mirrors, but they don't fit on the stock bar ends. So then I bought the Billet internal adaptor, but there's no room inside grip for the adapter to fit.

Am I just being stupid here? Is it a matter of moving the controls out a bit to make room? I'm hesitant to mess with the controls.

Any insight would be appreciated.

m

I have a 2000 CBR 600 that was just in the shop to get the carbs cleaned/sync. Bike runs absolutely amazing at first start up. Never has problems starting or idling. Once its ridden for a couple minutes and starts warming up however, it begins to sputter really bad between 1500 and 3700 rpms. if i pull the clutch in, the bike idles fine. The only way to go at stop signs etc is to rev the bike out to get it to go, otherwise it sputters and wants to die. Once i get past 3700 rpms, the bike runs PERFECT. Could this be a rectifier problem maybe? any ideas are helpful! thanks

I just bought a baja bv250 to learn on but now i need the complete front fairings and can't find them anywhere

I just got my 2003 ZX6R Ninja back from a guy that tuned it up and went over it for me. The Cam Chain Tensioner was bad so he put an APE Manuel CCT in it,adjust the valves (needed a few shims), synced the carbs, cleaned the air fliter, oil change, etc. I dont think the CCT is adjusted correct. When you start it up and ride it, it makes a loud tickling/knocking sound. You can hear it all RPMs while riding. Is louded then it was before with the stock one. Didn't he tighten it up enough??? Should I tighten it up a little bit. Im no mechanic but can work on the bike, just have to find the CCT. Any help and info would be very helpful.

My zx9 is overheating, i think i need a new thermostat.The bike is a '97, i found a thermostat from a '96 on ebay, will it work??

i have a 1997 suzuki rf900 and i took out the carbs and cleaned them real good for like 4 or 5 hours, put them back in made sure everything was in its place and ready to go, went to start and it doesnt start still!!!!! i checked the plugs and they seem to be alittle rough so i cleaned them up and put them back in and decided to check the plug wires. To do this i used one of those little light things that look like a screw driver, you hook up to a ground and if whatever you touch has power the light comes on. well i hooked that up and touch the inside of the spark plug wire with the key on, didnt get any light, then i tried doing it while i cranked the motor, still no light. so i figured i would then test the ignition coils. i tested the wires going from the starter into the ignition coils and there was power. does this mean the ignition coils are bad? i check both coils and both dont have power to the spark plug wires.

My plugs are over 3 years old and I'm going to replace them. I have an 06 gixxer k6. I just took them out and took some pics.

The stock NGK plugs are CR9E. They have hot CR8E and cold CR10E. Here's what the service manual says:
Check spark plug heat range by observing electrode color. If
the electrode of the spark plug is wet appearing or dark color,
replace the spark plug with hotter type one. If it is white or
glazed appearing, replace the spark plug with colder type
one.

Here are the pics of my old spark plugs.
Picasa Web Albums - Steve - Old Spark Plugs

I can't tell for sure how they look. Opinions?

And what brands do you guys recommend? Websites appreciated.

Thanks guys!

i have an 05 636 engine out of the bike im trying to start and cant, it turns over i can here the injectors priming when i connect ignition but there is no power at the fuel pump, i wired the pump directly still didint fire.

the only thing i think it could be is i had a very strong magnetic bolt tray sitting on top of the ECU and relay box, is it possible the relays or ecu are magnetised??when i connect igniton i can hear a click from the relay box.help please!

ive got a 1997 suzuki rf900. when the bike ran it would idle low or it would idle high. when i got on the throttle it would bog down. This was about 6 months ago. when i decided that it would probably need some money to get running i drained the full tank and plug the lines going from the fuel tank to the motor, this was the beggining of its six months of none running storage. someone mentioned that the carbs may have needed to be synced, but that doesnt make any sense to me because there preset from the factory and unless you take the bike apart they should be fine. i tried to start it yesterday, i connected the lines and filled it with fresh gas and all it does is crank, its got compression, but it doesnt start. what should i do?

I have a 2006K6 Gixxer. I put on a PCIIIUSB months ago and it's given me 0 problems (probably 1,000 miles+) until now.

I was cruising in 2nd gear around 40 on rural roads and I upshifted to 5th and let go of the throttle (don't ask why - it was for a reason). My bike instantly shut off with an FI alarm. I coasted safely into a pullover to troubleshoot.

My friend behind me said he saw a puff of white smoke come out of my exhaust when my bike died. And it was instantly when I shifted to 5th and let go of the throttle. So my assumption is that the RPM shift was too sudden and the power commander fucked up my fuel mixture and flooded my cylinders with too much gasoline.

So on the restart attempts, white smoke was coming out of the exhaust like an old steam locomotive. She wouldn't start. The white smoke eventually went away. I was killing the battery with all the restart attempts. Each failed attempt caused the FI light to come on. Resetting the ignition cleared the FI alarm.

I was using the WOT feature on the restarts to stop fuel from going into the cylinder. We had to jump her and finally got her started and I got her home.

She seems to be running fine but here's the first diagnostics I've done. I couldn't pull the FI code cause I wasn't in dealer mode on the road. Now that I'm home and in dealer mode, I can't reproduce the issue of course. So I don't know which FI code was thrown during this whole debacle.

I looked at my power commander unit, and it's a little concerning. The lights go out and come back on. If you gently squeeze the unit, the LEDs stay on and move on the fuel range when you rock the throttle. So it seems that the power commander is working, but I think the unit may be flakin out on me. If you let go of the unit, the LED stays on for a sec or 2 then goes out. You can still see the LEDs unbelievably faint when they're off and they're moving when you rock the throttle.

So I sent a note to DynoJet to get their opinion on whether or not I need a new unit. But I want your opinions of course. Fire away!

I could not find the correct place to post this so sorry I need a waterpump for this bile 95zx7 i have looked on eBay and craigslist for the past two weeks and nothing can someone help where can I get this part at a fair price and just to let you know there is no seal kit for this pumped I looked the water started to drip out of the tell tell hole then went to pouring I put stop leak and seal leak just to slow it down I still have to ride the bike but I carry water and never let it over heat what kinda damage am I doing after about 30 miles straight gotta let the bike cool Nd add water

So I bought my Honda CBR600 a few months ago, I rode it around for a few weeks, but then I didn't touch it for about 2 1/2 months. Now I'm riding it again, and I'm having a problem that I had back when I purchased the bike.

After researching all over the internet, I have found that this is a common problem with the 2003 Honda CBR 600's. The regulator is too close to the headers (I beleive) and so it overheats, and does not charge the battery, and in turn, the bike does not start.

If I leave my bike over night, it starts fine in the morning. If I go for a ride, it runs all well, however if I kill the engine to lets say put gas in it, then try to start it a couple minutes later, the battery won't have any power left in it, and I have to either 1. kick start it or 2. let it sit for about 20-30 minutes, and by then I guess the engine cooled allowing the regulator to charge the battery?

So I read on some other forums that the fix for this was to buy a 2005 CBR 600 regulator (part # 31600-MEE-003) and replace my currenty regulator.

I just wanted to confirm on this forum that this is the proper way to fix this problem, and to confirm the part I listed above is the needed part or not. If anyone has any websites to get it for cheap, I'd appreciate it. (From what I've found online for a 2005 Regulator/Rectifier, they're about $180)... I'm not too mechanically inclined, so I'm going to just purchase the part and then take it into my local dealer to have it replaced.

Thanks.