If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above.
You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed.
To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.
So i finally decided to drag my R1. Ive been drag racing off and on since I was 16... and have been in a few NHRA sponsered events. I normally drag my 68' Nova, so this will be a first for me... racing bikes that is.
I kinda made a check-list in my head, tell me what you guys think I should add or not do... etc, to get my bike ready. I'm trying to run a low 9 seconds in the 1/4 mile.
List of stuff:
*Already have 15 tooth front sprocket (-1 tooth)
*Ordering 45 tooth rear sprocket (+2 teeth)
*Ordering 6" swing-arm extension kit w/ 530 NON O-ring Chain
*Lowered 3" in the rear
*Lowered 1 1/4" in the front using the Fork Tubes
*Ordering Schnitz straps to lower the front more
*Already have full scorpion exhaust (headers, mid-pipe, and can)
*Already have PC3 usb power commander
*Already have a New K&N Airfilter
*Ordering an Air Shifter
*Ordering a kill switch
*Ordering a dry nitrous kit from Onetail.com
*Already have mirror block-offs
See anything else I might need? Anything I should change? Specific brands I should use... etc?
Are there any parts you guys remove from your bikes when racing? Like, reflectors etc etc etc?
Sounds like you're setting it up nicely for racing. Not so nice for curves (but I'm sure you realise this).
I'd personally go for the wet NOS kit rather than dry. Why you ask? Because unless the shot is very small (under 5 or 10 hp shot?), you'll have to map the bike to run rich, so that while the NOS is on, it won't run lean and burn a piston.
I don't have any reflectors on my bike, so that's a non-issue for me. But, remove anything that isn't needed. Ie: Mirrors, reflectors, tool kit, etc. Lighter is better.
520 chain would be better as well. Get an aluminum rear sprocket.
If you want to get really serious with it, get a set of carbon fiber wheels. SUPER light stuff. Also, get the lightest tires you can find, that are still sticky.
Edit: Just looked at their nitrous kits, and they look fine. Wasn't thinking about the nitrous flowing past the IAT sensor (cools it off, makes it go rich).
Sounds like you're setting it up nicely for racing. Not so nice for curves (but I'm sure you realise this).
I'd personally go for the wet NOS kit rather than dry. Why you ask? Because unless the shot is very small (under 5 or 10 hp shot?), you'll have to map the bike to run rich, so that while the NOS is on, it won't run lean and burn a piston.
I don't have any reflectors on my bike, so that's a non-issue for me. But, remove anything that isn't needed. Ie: Mirrors, reflectors, tool kit, etc. Lighter is better.
520 chain would be better as well. Get an aluminum rear sprocket.
If you want to get really serious with it, get a set of carbon fiber wheels. SUPER light stuff. Also, get the lightest tires you can find, that are still sticky.
Edit: Just looked at their nitrous kits, and they look fine. Wasn't thinking about the nitrous flowing past the IAT sensor (cools it off, makes it go rich).
Thanks for the reply...
I already removed the reflectors and mirrors and whatnot. I'll probably keep finding stupid little things like that to remove.
As for the 520 chain conversion, I think i'm going to do my best to avoid that. For road course racing and curves I would say you are right, but Ive been told many times that the 520 chains / sprockets arent as strong and dont tend to hold up too well under a lot of torque at once, like a drag race would bring. There are guys i talk to that have snapped them many times over and claim the 530 Non-o-ring chains are the way to go.
What do you think?
Yeah i was curious about the nitrous kits... so you think that one from onetail.com is ok?
One of their nitrous kits should be fine. Safe atleast. I still really like wet kits better, but a dry kit will be just fine on your bike.
I find it hard to believe they've snapped 520 chains. A good quality 520 chain should hold up (for a while) just fine. It WILL however, wear MUCH quicker than a 530, and aluminum wears extremely quick anyway.
Is this bike going to be street driven as well, or track only?
One of their nitrous kits should be fine. Safe atleast. I still really like wet kits better, but a dry kit will be just fine on your bike.
I find it hard to believe they've snapped 520 chains. A good quality 520 chain should hold up (for a while) just fine. It WILL however, wear MUCH quicker than a 530, and aluminum wears extremely quick anyway.
Is this bike going to be street driven as well, or track only?
Well, it depends. At first, if I go with the swing-arm extensions, prolly on the street too........ but if I decide to go with a welded extended swing-arm then i'll just make it my track bitch and go all out
Say no to swingarm extensions. Everything I hear about them says they suck. Go for the real deal (entire swingarm).
If you go all out, and have the cash to burn on it, definately go with lighter wheels. Even if you don't get carbon fiber, get something lighter than stock.
Say no to swingarm extensions. Everything I hear about them says they suck. Go for the real deal (entire swingarm).
If you go all out, and have the cash to burn on it, definately go with lighter wheels. Even if you don't get carbon fiber, get something lighter than stock.
There are cheap ones out there but, if you get them from the original maker of them you will have no problem. Exoticycle makes them and they are sick. They have been tested at 250+ whp. So don't worry about the horror stories if you get the best.
The carbon fiber wheels cost alot. About 4k. It's one of those mods that you do once you have everything else done. In SST they are illegal but, Marvic Piuma's are cost effective and some of the lightest wheel sets around.
One of their nitrous kits should be fine. Safe atleast. I still really like wet kits better, but a dry kit will be just fine on your bike.
I find it hard to believe they've snapped 520 chains. A good quality 520 chain should hold up (for a while) just fine. It WILL however, wear MUCH quicker than a 530, and aluminum wears extremely quick anyway.
Is this bike going to be street driven as well, or track only?
My buddies snap 530 chains so I know that 520's will do the same. I personally say stay away from them. What you gain from the loss of rotational mass will not offset the safety aspect. I say if you care about your leg and your bike to stay away from that mod for a drag perspective.
You have a pretty good list made. Things that I would later get rid is the filter and get a BMC RACE. Also your exhaust isn't ideal but, it will do. Hindle is really good if you plan on going back to stock wb and hitting the curves. Also, I don't know what tire you are running but, a great cheap solution is Shinko. Pirelli also makes a really nice tire but, they cost alot. I personally run Shinko's and they can really hold up to some crazy power. Don't forget that you will need upgraded clutch springs to handle the nos kit. It will do fine in the beginning stock but, shortly you will eat up clutches.
+1 to the WET NOS KIT. You can run a dry nos kit but, I don't think that you can run more than a 40 shot and that may be pushing it. I've seen guys use alot more on a stock motor but, those are time bombs just waiting to explode. R1's have been known to throw a rod but, atleast you have the best model year for drag racing. On an 04+ I would say that you need to build the motor to run nos but, in your case you should be fine. Last but, not least your tuner will be the deciding factor. If would be nice if you could run a data logger to keep a close eye on you A/F ratio. That will help let you know if your motor is knocking.
You should be able to get away with your stock clutch with stiffer springs to prevent slip. Ideally a multi-stage lockup clutch would be best. They can take crazy whp in the 500+ whp neighborhood. Though I'm not sure that they make them for Yamaha's but, the 02-03 there should be something.
I checked around. Your only option is stiffer clutch springs and if needed you can shim them. You stock clutch will be fine for now but, you can upgrade to a Barnett. Barnett makes what you need.
I checked around. Your only option is stiffer clutch springs and if needed you can shim them. You stock clutch will be fine for now but, you can upgrade to a Barnett. Barnett makes what you need.
Ok..thanks for all the info... you guys and some other guys on the R1-forum.com website are going to have me racing in no time lol....
Heres what I got already:
*15 tooth front sprocket (-1 tooth)
*Lowered 3" in the rear
*Lowered 1 1/4" in the front using the Fork Tubes
*Full scorpion exhaust (headers, mid-pipe, and can)
*PC3 usb power commander
*New K&N Airfilter
*Mirror block-offs
*Solo seat cowl
Heres what I need to get:
*45 tooth rear sprocket (+2 teeth)
*6" swing-arm extension kit w/ 530 NON O-ring Chain
*Schnitz straps to lower the front more
*Air Shifter
*Kill switch
*Dry nitrous kit from Onetail.com
*New clutch springs
*Shinko 200 rear tire
*Pazzo race levers
*Carbon friber front/rear fenders
*Graves velocity stacks
*Graves AIS Smog Block-Off Plugs
Draggin' my R1
Linear Mode
