Using your stock body work is an expensive risk, if you have to replace any of it you'll wish you had bought a full race bodywork package (race stuff is about 1/4 to 1/3 the cost of the stock stuff). The aftermarket bodywork is repairable with fiberglass usually, so it can be quite economical to repair, the stock PLASTIC bodywork is not only expensive but difficult to repair and look decent again. Another issue is what was already mentioned about the attachment of race and stock body work together, most likely it's not going to happen. Race bodywork is generally 4 pieces; a 1 piece tail, front fender, an 'upper' (main body), and a fluid retaining 'lower' (main body). The biggest difference is that the 'upper' and 'lower' race bodywork generally meet right in the middle of the bike and connect together to make a quickly removable set-up (there will also be several bolts in the 'upper' to attach to the bike itself). Many racers don't use the bolts that attach the 'lower' directly to the bike, many like myself just use the fasteners connecting it to the 'upper' to hold it on. This is done to make removal of the lower very quick if you use 1/4 turn DZUS fasteners to attach the upper and lower. This is extremely handy when going to tech because often times (especially with a new racer) they will want to inspect your bike for leaks and how you safety wired it. A hint is to safety wire your oil drain plug and filter to a point that can be seen thru an opening in the bodywork, you should know where the safety wire can be seen from so you can tell the tech inspector where to look to make their life easier. The inspectors will be most critical of you when new, make their life easier by doing things right from the start and it will pay for itself in the future, the tech guys have to deal with a number of uncooperative jerks at every event which makes them really appreciate the racers that do it right. Some inspectors will require you to remove the lower or open it on 1 side so they can have a look, don't argue with them just do it! Have the front 2 (of the 3) DZUS fasteners holding the lower disconnected on 1 side so all you have to do is reach down and disconnect the rear most fastener and let the lower swing open. Know which side lets them see the safety wiring the easiest, most likely they will reattach at least 1 of the fasteners for you after they inspect it (do what you can to get the fasteners lined up properly so you don't have to fight with the bodywork everytime you remove the lower).
Bodywork is very much about getting what you pay for, cheap stuff usually breaks before bending and can be quite brittle. The better stuff is flexible and has good alignment of the locations where you drill the mounting holes. I would suggest asking around who has had good luck with what. I have used Air Tech and Sharkskins personally, I like the Sharkskins for all the right reasons, but they are a little bit more expensive. There are other good brands as well, search this site for some topics on this very subject.
Some tech people will want you to safety wire the pin that you use to lock the rear axle nut. What I mean by this is if you use a pin that slides thru the hole but doesn't get bent over to hold it (like a cotter pin) they want you to wire the pin closed so it will stay on and not vibrate off somehow. Wiring it to the bike as well is not required - but handy.
Fairly new to CCS is the requirement to have your competition number on your helmet in at least 1 spot, this is done in case of a multi bike crash resulting in more than 1 rider getting knocked out. Though not a requirement many riders get an extra State I.D. and make a copy of their health insurance and emergency contact info (get this laminated for wear resistance) and keep it in the chest pocket that many leathers have inside, some go as far as to put a Red Cross symbol on the pocket as well. Having your name on your helmet isn't required, but many have their 1st name or a nickname on their helmet too.
Have your bike clean and well put together, no loose parts, no tape flailing about, etc. If your bike looks good it will be better recieved in tech and may help attract a potential sponser. Have all your gear with you (preferably wearing it) when going to tech: helmet, leathers, boots, gloves, make sure that all of them are in good shape, no holes or failing seams, remember skin grafts hurt! If you have crash repair on the bike, like Duct Tape, cut it with a knife so it looks well done (Get a roll of duct tape in each of the colors on your bike if possible. This will provide a fast, fairly strong, decent looking repair in the heat of the moment after a mishap). This is also the reason to stick with a fairly simple paint job (in a common color) when learning, much easier to repair and a can of matching spray paint will do wonders at the track as well. I say all this because after a crash you have to go thru tech again before continueing racing at that event.
If you have any questions don't hesitate to ask. Good luck with your new soon to be addiction!
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