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Car for a bike? Mixing it up

5K views 71 replies 24 participants last post by  arcticamt6 
#1 ·
Been lurkin' for a couple of days now and I've really enjoyed this forum thus far so here I am!

I have an 03 Nissan 350z. Car payment + premium + insurance = PITA

I've been seriously considering selling it to buy a motorcycle as my only mode of transportation. Looking at something like a ninja 250. Something cheaply priced and cheap to maintain with great gas mileage, but at the same time, it should have some fun factor. A 600 would be nice, but they are more expensive and not as fuel efficient, not to mention I don't know what my insurance would look like with a 600. Any other bike suggestions? Will I get bored with a ninja 250? Here is a ninja I found. 250 Ninja (3K miles)

I've had nothing but discouraging comments made by close friends and family("What if it rains? It's dangerous. It's not practical.") I know that many others have done it before.

Thoughts?
 
#2 ·
I don't know what part of TX you live in but I've lived in Dallas and the weather is WAY too insane to ride all year round!!!

I would def get some crappy car along with a 250 for those storm, tornado, flood, hail, ice, flying pig, etc weathers you get out there in TX.

If you don't have any friends that can teach you on a regular basis, def start with 250. Move up when you're ready. Being 20, insurance will not like you.

But don't let EVERYBODY you know talk you out of riding, they don't know what riding is like because they don't ride. With that said, if they know you'll do dumb sh*t because you are a dumbh sh*t on the Z, then.... maybe listen to them. LOL
 
#3 ·
Hehe yes, I do live in Dallas. The weather isn't THAT bad! It's 61 degrees right now. But yes it can be unpredictable.

I learned to ride on a 250 ninja a friend had. Planned on getting my M endorsement at the time, but other things came up and I didn't get the chance.

I figure insurance would be high. I have 2 at faults and 1 other claim on my record(Parking brake didn't engage all the way. Car rolled into lamp post with cement base. Apparently still counts cause it's collision.) as well as a speeding ticket. Speeding ticket was taken care of by defensive driving course.

I don't act a fool in my Z mainly because I cannot afford to. Gas kills and a a new set of tires would find me asking for change on the street corner.
 
#7 ·
Maybe it's just the difference of North Dallas then.. I was in Richardson, Plano, Frisco area. Still compared to here in SoCal, it's bad out there!

Mmmmm yeah... 2 at faults with your age will get it up there... But 250 shouldn't be that high. If it is, consider a cruiser. Cheaper insurance(probably half), still lots of fun and at least you'll be on 2 wheels to start off.

Even if you can borrow family car from time to time, I know how a STORM comes out of nowhere in TX and you might get stuck somewhere for a while without a chance to pick up a car. Def get an old civic or something. I have a 96 beater and still runs like a champ!
 
#4 ·
Call up an insurance agent and get a quote. It's not hard. They'll tell you exactly what you would have to pay for certain bikes.


But here's the deal. Insurance on bikes CAN be cheap on a 250. But if you DO move up, it won't be cheap until you've been riding for several years. Assuming you go to a supersport.

Tires. Tires don't last more than about 10k miles, and they are not particularly cheap. On a 250, though- you're looking at about 65-70 bucks each. Not terrible. But supersport tires are quite a bit more. About 300 for the set.

Gas mileage will be around 60-65 mpg on a 250. On a 600SS, closer to 40. Big difference.

Then you have to replace the chain and sprockets periodically. About 150 bucks, give or take. Only every couple of years.

And then you have to buy gear. If you ride all year, you need SEVERAL sets of gear. And then luggage, so you can actually use the bike to run to the store and stuff. Plan on needing at least 2 grand or so worth of gear/luggage in the first year. It'll last you for a LONG time, but you won't want to ride in the rain without rain gear, or in cold weather without cold weather gear.

The bike you posted looks like a pretty damn good deal. Maybe offer 1300 and see what happens.

The reason I broke down the prices, though.... a ninja 250 is one of the only bikes that can actually save you money over a car. With a supersport, you get a little better mileage, but the tire costs and insurance and other maintenance offset that.

With something like the Z, you'd be breaking even, more or less. If you drove a civic, it would be cheaper to keep that then to get a bike.

So yeah- a 250 over a 350Z will cost you less in the end to operate. How much less? Depends on how much you drive. At least you wouldn't be making car payments.

BUT- unless you have close friends/roommates/family around that have a car you can borrow from time to time, having a bike as an only vehicle is VERY hard to do. There's a lot of times where you just need a car.
 
#6 ·
I do have family that, if I ever needed it, I'm sure would let me use their vehicles. I may even have money left over to buy a little beater car after gear purchases.

All the gear would be pretty expensive, but I figure I can buy the appropriate gear when I need it. Easier on me if I don't see the money go all at once. Every day riding and rain gear would be priorities, but the winter gear can wait. If this winter is any indication of future winters, I could probably make due with casual riding and rain gear.

Suquentialshift - A bicycle would be nice, but wouldn't be practical for the area I live in. School and work are not within riding distance. I live in Dallas county, but in the suburbs. Much different than living in a city. NY for example.
 
#8 ·
I should also add that for reference, my wife's ninja 250 with liability and comprehensive is like 175 a YEAR to insure. And 75 of that is just the north carolina per-vehicle cost that you can't get around no matter what.
 
#20 ·
Yeah, when I had my 250, it was a whopping $18 a month, with PIP. But I was 37 at the time, not 20.

Just checked into the New Riders subforum. Great reads throughout! If that seller gets back to me about that 250, I'll probably pick it up should he decide he'll take a little less.

Also found this ***** 2005 Kawasaki Ninja -black- *****

Doesn't list miles, but is there any reason an 05 is better than an 04? Or should I just go with the cheaper one?
Yes, the reason that 05 is higher than the 04, is that the 05 is a Ninja 500, not a 250.
 
#11 ·
Right- that's what I was saying.


The ONLY exception is the older 250's because tires are so cheap and the chains last FOREVER, and insurance is cheap.

But the cheapness to own it does NOT offset the added aggravation of not owning a car, IMO.

My wife rides her bike A)because she loves to ride B)because it's as cheap as any econo car C)because it was 500 bucks D) because a car permit for her campus is 325 a year and a bike one is 17 E) car parking is a half mile from her lab. Bike parking is 20 yards

If not for the above, it's not worth having it as an only vehicle. You HAVE to be committed.

Someone like PhilB on here did it for a LONG time. But he lived in socal, his wife had a car, and he'd been riding long enough to know that he could do it. If you've never owned a bike before.... then what if you don't like having to deal with it every day?

I know I'd fucking blow my brains out if I had to ride my bike every day. I remember I was doing work on my car one time for like two weeks and rode my bike every day because of that. It was fucking awful.
 
#12 · (Edited)
Cheapest to own is probably the WR250R or X. It is slightly quicker than a ninja, has no body work to screw up in a drop (just plastic), weighs less, has less than half the engine maintenance, and handles better... but they also cost more to buy and you wont find any for under 2 grand.

DRZ400, similar to the WRX but faster and requires more maintenance. You may be able to get a super cheap one though and it will definitely be more powerful than either 250, also a lot less gutless... BUT they are known to be buzzy on the highway. It bothers some.

Neither of those are sport bikes though, they are supermotos and dual sports. Meaning less wind protection and different styling that some love and some hate.


I personally commute on my WR250X. With the constant stop and go traffic it still manages 60mpg, it costs me roughly $5 a day to commute in my light truck vs $1.60 to do it on my bike. Also, the difference in insurance price would allow me to buy a set of tires every few months ($30 for the bike vs $120 for truck), except I still own and insure the truck :( Have to buy groceries, haul the garbage off, drive to work in freezing rain, etc... so I need it.
 
#13 ·
I live in Austin and had a bike only for 3 years and it's doable but can be miserable as well. Riding in the rain, riding in the heat, traffic in triple digit temps 'cause yes, lane splitting is illegal in Texas and worst of all, riding in the rain and cold to the point when you get to your destination you and your bike are covered in ice. Ice storm or snow, forget it as you're not going anywhere. Hard rain and you don't want to go anywhere but school/work wont let you slide so you do it. Yes, it can be done but it is far from ideal.
 
#19 ·
I miss OC in that people more or less knew their place. I moved for work and it seems everyone from North Hollywood to Burbank to Glendale to Pasadena spends all their monthly income on a bmw/mb or some import 'luxury' car while still living with their parents...and some of them even after getting married. I'm surrounded by pathetic egomaniac mama's boys. :bangdesk
 
#21 ·
I'm a deff an advocate of the 500. I never got tired of mine even after 10k miles the first year.

And as far as gear goes. The Joe Rocket Survivor suit is going to be my next purchase. $360 on ebay, alleged 100% water proof. From what info I could gather only a aerostich is a better one piece suit. Potentially you could get fully geared out for the same price of a full leather jacket.

One more thing..... Thank you for being smart and not running into this forum looking for approval to buy a street triple or :gsxr 1000.
 
#23 ·
The beauty of the 500 is that it just uses more fuel than the 250, but everything else costs the same! Tires are about the same, brake pads, chain and sprockets, sparkplugs, etc. On top of that, the 500 is easier to work on than the 250.
 
#25 ·
Doh! That is a 500 isn't it.... How does the 500 compare to the 250 as far as mpg? Also, as a first bike, would the 500 be okay? It's pretty close to a 600, which apparently is not recommended as a first.

I have a helmet already so that will save me a little bit of money when buying my gear. I also have this weird, sleeveless armored piece. I think it's supposed to go under your riding gear?


Great stuff from all of you. I think I'm leaning towards getting a bike and a beater. Looking at some late 90s Honda Civics. Car when I have to, bike when I don't. Paying insurance on both won't be fun, but even then, it should be lower than what I pay now for the Z.
 
#26 ·
The 500 is a good choice for a starter bike. It's a parallel twin, not an I-4. The 600 sportbikes make about twice the power of that 500, and are otherwise much more difficult to handle. The 500 is probably a better choice for overall transport, as it will handle highways better than the 250. The 250 is adequate, though.

PhilB
 
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#27 ·
I plan to go take a look at at least one of these bikes this weekend. What should I be looking for? When buying used cars, I usually take them to a shop and pay for a mechanic to look it over after inspecting it myself. I get the feeling I can't really do that when shopping for a bike, as motorcycle shops aren't as common.
 
#28 ·
The other thing if every day riding is your thing is a largish capacity scooter around 150cc plus, lots of storage reasonable weather protection cheap tyres etc.

No one has mentioned it yet but done any training MSF course etc?

What to look out for a bike general wear and tear damaged frames and swingarms as they will next to impossible to sell again. Bikes that have been patched up after a fall most people don't replace bar ends and leavers so they will most likely be rashed up there. Leaks around forks and the like may be a sign of wheelies and general abuse condition of the chain is it at a constant tension as you roll the bike forward if it has tight and loose spots then its shagged and will need replacing. Blowing smoke service history etc.
 
#29 ·
yes, you definitely have to be dedicated. i got my car in a wreck that put it in the body shop for almost 3 months (March thru end of may) in South Dakota. i rode to work everyday and only needed a ride home after work once cause a snow storm came up. i actually LOVED riding every day. I will admit that i got lucky cause most of the bad weather happened on the weekend. the coldest i rode to work was 20. the worst was sleet, 35 degrees, 40mph winds with gusts up to 60. now THAT was dicey. still made the 15 mile trek without too much trouble.

yep, you gotta really wanna ride to endure riding everyday no matter the weather or situation. some bikes are better for it, others..... not so much. and the gear... better to have it before you need it than after ya need it. BTDT.

i have to admit tho, riding year round definitely made my tires last a lot longer. 13k on Avons on he Busa. WOOT.
 
#31 ·
Riding in all types of conditions will make you a better experienced rider. My stryker that I bought in January of this year was my only transportation for just about the majority of the year. It was my first bike too. I did have to borrow a car from time to time but it hardly ever gets too rough here in SoCal. I actually enjoy riding in the rain as long as it's not too crazy. Light rain is much more enjoyable than a super hot summer day. I think 90% of riders out here are terrified of rain, rather, any type of imperfect weather. I like to think that I'm above most 'weekend/perfect weather' riders who have been riding for years compared to my 1 year of riding just about every single day. You learn best with experience afterall.

With that said, always have a back up car and the right gear. It will save you headache.

Look through craigslist for even used gears to save big bucks!
 
#32 · (Edited)
My full year of commuting (did 10k miles) thus far has been

~$666 for gas
$360 for 2 tires, sprockets, and chain.
$98 6 quarts of oil at $12 each + 4x filters at $6.50
$50 for a chain slider (result of my gearing combo making clearance close and chain was rubbing, change gearing when I changed the chain to avoid that, now I anticipate far fewer chain and sprocket changes with the new ratio and no rubbing)
My first valve check is not due for another 16k miles.
$1174 total.


Meanwhile my truck would have used $2000 in gas alone to cover those same miles.

Figure 5 quarts x 4 oil changes for a car and about $5 per filter, so ~$128. So I would need a car that got ~38mpg in the city to match my bike on running costs. Pretty much have to be a hybrid to manage that, which would be rather expensive and cost a lot more on insurance. Perhaps an 80s CRX with a manual driven like a granpa? Maybe an old diesel rabbit? Course those ancient ol things will probably need some constant love to keep em going unless I found one in pristine condition.
 
#37 ·
After purchasing a bike, what kind of preventive maintenance should be done? Spark plugs? Oil change?

EDIT: To answer Nero Diablo's question above, no I do not have any kind of formal training.
There's some very good info on buying used bikes on this site; do a little searching and you can get all your questions covered.

I'd change all the fluids on it (oil, coolant if any, brake fluid, fork oil, etc.) unless the previous owner has done it recently. Check the condition of the chain and sprockets, how new the tires are (not just tread, but also age and cracks in the sidewalls and so on).

And get training. That matters a lot.

PhilB
 
#48 ·
You can do quality gear on the cheap. I used one jacket year round, a Joe Rocket I got on clearance for about $150. It has a ton of vents for summer use, the when it gets chilly close the vents and put the liner in, when it gets really cold, I loosen up the adjusters and wear a hoodie underneath it. The jacket is also waterproof but only in light rain, so I bought an oversized rain coat and just throw that on over the jacket in heavy rain.

I also got Frank Thomas winter pants with armor, removable liner, and they're waterproof, throw on some thermals underneath and good to go, clearance purchase for $100.

The place you're gonna want to spend real money is your hands, buy high quality gloves, crappy ones just suck to wear and are uncomfortable. I love Helds, and they're not that expensive compared to similar quality Alpinstars or Dainese.

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#49 · (Edited)
You wouldn't happen to have the name of the specific jacket would you?

When looking at pants, what kind is best? Textile? Mesh? Should I opt for leather?

Also, boots. Weatherproof? Racing? Street/Touring? Which is best for my needs?


EDIT: Found what I was looking for in the new rider section. Think I'm gonna go with the Held Evo Thrux Gloves and the Sidi Cobra boots. The boots are a bit pricey at $260 so I'm gonna look around. As far as pants and jacket, I'll be looking on craigslist for leather/textile jacket and pants. There has to be something on there for cheap.


EDIT #2: Looking at the Joe Rocket Hemp Jacket for $96. Anyone heard anything about it? Good enough? For pants, I think I've decided on the AGV Telluride. They seem to be good all-season riding pants.
 
#50 ·
I believe mine is a Joe Rocket Meteor 6. I also have the Held Evo Thrux gloves, best gloves I've ever had. You can use them as 3 season gloves, though I also have Held Air Heros I wear when it is really hot out, but the Thrux are not that hot in summer anyway.

I have a little bit of all gear, including leather and textile pants, and jackets. I mostly wear my leather and relegate the textile to cold weather duty, but if I could only have one it would be textile, it's just a lot more versatile with vents, liners, and waterproofing. Later on you can go buy leather stuff which tends to be more expensive.

For boots I usually just wear comfortable leather tactical boots, with jeans. I also use my bike for my primary transportation, and while riding boots offer more protection, regular boots are better for when you get off the bike at your destination. There are also nice looking kevlar jeans out there that are comfortable. I crash tested a pair of Shift jeans this summer and they held up.

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