Sportbikes.net - View Single Post - Easiest FZ6 Pod light mod - driving light and alternate flash - NO RELAYS-NO DIODES!!

mistereman1 · 04-05-2008, 02:01 PM

I love this pod mod for it's simplicity. The fact that no soldering is required is the best part. I didn't want to remove the fairing to make the holes and I only needed to remove the two inner side panels to gain real easy access to the back of the pod location. Grind off the nub and start with a small drill bit working your way up to the 9/16". While drilling I had the shop vac fired up and placed as close as possible to the tip of the bit. I can't say for sure if that is the reason I ended up with no plastic shavings inside the light housings, but it couldn't have hurt!
The R1 connectors need to be carefully removed from the plastic plug as Reggie says. Before you use shrink tubing to cover the majority of the exposed connector there are two little pins about 1/16" that stick up which need to be bent down flush with the rest of the connector. After you do that, cut your shrink tubing to long enough to cover all of the connector's metal surface except for the tip, which is about 3/8" long. The cool thing about the connector is it actually "clicks" into place when you insert it into the back of the wiring harness side of the turn signal connector. The connector will only go into the back of the plug one way, so even though I know it's not true, it almost seems like it was made to go together that way. Of course I still used a zip tie to add extra stability/security. I have a small soldering iron but it would sure be a real pain to splice into the connector wiring and then solder the wiring without removing the fairing. Maybe if I was younger and could do the contortions involved or if the electrical load of the pod lights was greater ( I used LED's), then I would solder. I did not even solder the 2" extensions I spliced into the R1 wiring. Instead I used some marine grade heat shrink crimp connectors I have left over from my sailboating days. They are marvelous, waterproof, and I never had one fail in 10 years of boating. When you heat them up to shrink them it also activates a glue that permanently seals the connection from water and air, so no corrosion, ever.
This mod looks great and will take about 1 hour including cleanup and testing as you go along. Thanks to Reggie and all of the other pod-mod contributors.

04-05-2008, 02:01 PM	#12 (permalink)
mistereman1 SBN Rookie Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Texas Posts: 9 Casino Cash: $658 Sportbike: 2006/Yamaha/FZ6	No relay, No diodes, and NO SOLDERING!! I love this pod mod for it's simplicity. The fact that no soldering is required is the best part. I didn't want to remove the fairing to make the holes and I only needed to remove the two inner side panels to gain real easy access to the back of the pod location. Grind off the nub and start with a small drill bit working your way up to the 9/16". While drilling I had the shop vac fired up and placed as close as possible to the tip of the bit. I can't say for sure if that is the reason I ended up with no plastic shavings inside the light housings, but it couldn't have hurt! The R1 connectors need to be carefully removed from the plastic plug as Reggie says. Before you use shrink tubing to cover the majority of the exposed connector there are two little pins about 1/16" that stick up which need to be bent down flush with the rest of the connector. After you do that, cut your shrink tubing to long enough to cover all of the connector's metal surface except for the tip, which is about 3/8" long. The cool thing about the connector is it actually "clicks" into place when you insert it into the back of the wiring harness side of the turn signal connector. The connector will only go into the back of the plug one way, so even though I know it's not true, it almost seems like it was made to go together that way. Of course I still used a zip tie to add extra stability/security. I have a small soldering iron but it would sure be a real pain to splice into the connector wiring and then solder the wiring without removing the fairing. Maybe if I was younger and could do the contortions involved or if the electrical load of the pod lights was greater ( I used LED's), then I would solder. I did not even solder the 2" extensions I spliced into the R1 wiring. Instead I used some marine grade heat shrink crimp connectors I have left over from my sailboating days. They are marvelous, waterproof, and I never had one fail in 10 years of boating. When you heat them up to shrink them it also activates a glue that permanently seals the connection from water and air, so no corrosion, ever. This mod looks great and will take about 1 hour including cleanup and testing as you go along. Thanks to Reggie and all of the other pod-mod contributors.