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Old 05-29-2007, 02:46 PM   #1 (permalink)
mbodell
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Moorestown, NJ
Age: 27
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Sportbike: 2004 Yamaha FZ6
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Default Steering Head Bearing How to

Well first I am going to apologize for the lack of pictures, I forgot my camera and it was two hours away to get it.
The first thing to do is to get a copy of the service manual. It is posted multiple times on the forums. You will need it for the torque specs.

I used the All Balls Bearings for this repair. Part number 22-1004

I also did the racetech springs at the same time, so you may be able to get the forks out with the wheel attached if you are more skilled than me.

Put the bike on the center stand and tie something heavy to the back. I used a crackshaft from a 351. I also used and engine lift attached to the front of the frame to help secure the frame when I hit out the races. (this was probably overkill)

Remove the fairing first. The quickest was is to just remove the metal bracket from the frame. The next step was to remove the brakes, which is two bolts on each. The hardest thing to figure out was how to get the front wheel off. I ended up using a 5/8 sparkplug socket and a socket to 1/2" allen wrech thing that fit in the other end of the sparkplug socket from autozone. This worked out great since we could torque the axel back in to spec.

The next step was to drop out the forks. After you have the forks out, you need a 27mm socket for the top steering nut. (I took off the handlebar to make things easier, you might not have to) After you get past that, there are two wierd sprocket nuts. We couldn't find a tool for this, Yamaha makes one for $65, but I am cheap. I used a mountain bike sprocket remover from park tools. the top nut comes right off without the tool, the bottom ones does have some torque on it. After that the steering assembly comes right out.

Now for the fun part.
The lower race will come off with a chisel and a good size hammer. It takes awhile, but it will eventually move. The old races in the headstock come out with a long heavy steel rod with a flat tip. I used a 18" steel spike that was flattened on the end. Each race has a spot on the side that you can place the rod to hammer out the old ones. This takes a few hits on each size with a good size hammer and steel rod.

Now that everything is off you have to put on the new stuff. For the lower race on the stem, I used a piece of L grade 1 1/4" copper. You need about two feet. It went on really easily, but you will bend up the end of the copper.
To get the other two races in was also not that bad. The top one you can hammer in with a mallet. For the bottom I used the mallet until it was flush with the frame and then finished it up with a flat steel rod. (be very careful doing this, one slip/scratch and you will need to get a new race)
After that, you just put all the seals in, and put it back together. I torqued the bottom top steering sprocket down hard to set everything and then loosened it and tightened it to the point that it put a little more resistance from side to side than I wanted. This turned out to be just right after everything was together again.
My old bearings were seized and rusted after only 7600 miles. Best $40 spent on the bike yet.

I meant to post this under the mod section. If a moderator can move it that would be great.

Last edited by mbodell : 05-29-2007 at 03:13 PM.
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