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Old 08-16-2003, 04:18 PM   #1
crlnevl
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Angry ZX9 overheating

New to bike engines, and my used 94 ZX9 is overheating. I know the sending unit for the fan is dead but I jumped it so the fan would stay on and it still went red. I shut down and allowed it to cool, but it made a 1 hr ride turn in to a 2 hr task.Today I pulled the water pump housing and the fins would only wiggle very slightly. Is the prop for the pump gear/shaft drive. I assumed it's fine. I've already flushed the system. I changed the thermoustat about a week ago becasue the gauge would go up and stay there. After the change it would go up and then down and then through the roof. Now it just cooks. Any ideas? Please help.
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Old 08-18-2003, 01:59 AM   #2
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I've had 2 ZX-9s' (94 and 95) BOTH needed a new water pump, and they both overheated by loss of water from the pump themselves. THe seal went bad and it leaked from the weep hole. Try that, and also use some Water wetter. It also works. Lowere the temp by about 10 degrees.

If you want, you could also buy the aluminum fan from Muzzy's as I have heard that it work a little better than the stock plastic fan.
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Old 05-03-2004, 02:14 AM   #3
-1995-zx9r-
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Default 95 zx9r overheating

i have a 1995 zx9r and i also have the problem of it overheating. coolent levels are fine and fan kicks on (i have even wired my own switch in to turn it on whenever i want). i can ride for about an hour or so, but then the bike just goes strait up to hot (the red zone). i am going to get it flushed tomorrow and i will try airing out the system. i had a guy tell me that it might be a leaking head gasket. anyone have any ideas to what it might be other than a gasket or pump?
thanks alot!
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Old 05-03-2004, 01:28 PM   #4
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stuck thermostat (if the bike has one)

hose collapsing

clogged radiator

low coolant

radiator cap faulty
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Old 05-03-2004, 10:02 PM   #5
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what do you mean by hose callapsing? im thinking that it might be that the radiator is clogged since it has 30,000 miles on it, so i am going to get it flushed out. coolent is full, but what happens is...i fill the radiator full, makesure overflow tank is at right level, and then go for a ride...i get back and notice that the coolent from the radiator went into the overflow tank and sprayed out of the overflow tank tube and is all over my shit. at this point, the overflow tank is really full. the cap seems to go on fine, feels like its sealing. do you think it might be the water pump?
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Old 05-03-2004, 10:03 PM   #6
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do you think the jetting may have had an effect on it?
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Old 05-04-2004, 12:44 AM   #7
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a lean mixture will cause a bike to run hot


hose collapsing is when the hose is weak, and the pump will suck coolant hard, and it will collapse the hose.

its like taking a straw, putting your finger on the bottom, and sucking on it like a ho
and when you do that, the straw starts collapsing.

A bad rad cap will cause the coolant to boil at a low temp.


do you have the right coolant/water mixture?


are you sure you didn't put the thermostat in wrong.
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Old 05-04-2004, 10:25 AM   #8
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I have heard of head gasket problems causing overheating on the B model 9Rs. Hot combustion gases escape into the coolant and make it unable to transfer heat.

Might just be an air pocket in the cooling system too. Drain the coolant and siphon it back in very slowly using 1/4 ID vinyl tubing. This eliminates the air pockets. Not sure if that bike requires coolant bleeding but you should do that as needed too.
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Old 05-05-2004, 12:50 AM   #9
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What do you mean by "siphon it back in very slowly"? If the bike does require coolant bleeding, where is that located and how is that done? thanks
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Old 05-05-2004, 01:05 AM   #10
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with the bike cold, remove the radiator cap. top off the coolant.

Let the bike run, and usually the air will purge out. Then put the radiator cap back on.


Im not sure about new bikes. But with cars. There will be weird looking fittings, on the cooling systems. It sort of looks like the brake bleeders. You loosen them up a little and the air and coolant will leak out. And just tighten the fitting again.



Another thing to do. Leave the bike sitting. There should be a drain plug/screw/bolt.
remove the drain plug. Very small coolant should be coming out of the drain. If a lot is pouring out, you have an air leak in your system.
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Old 05-05-2004, 07:36 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by -1995-zx9r-
What do you mean by "siphon it back in very slowly"? If the bike does require coolant bleeding, where is that located and how is that done? thanks


I meant: don't just pour it in with a bottle and a funnel. Hang a jug of coolant from the handlebar and use a small vinyl tube to siphon the coolant from the bottle into the bike. I would suspect the bolt on the water pump near the top that faces down, is a bleeder, but I'm not certain. When the bike is cold, crack said bolt open and allow air to escape until coolant dribbles from the bolt. Any air in the water pump would make it cavitate and cause a dramatic loss of pumping efficiency.
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Old 05-05-2004, 09:56 PM   #12
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ok guys, i purged and bled the radiator. will this still make the coolent flow into the overflow container or will it hopefully stay in the radiator this time? i cant really go out and see if it works yet since one of my forks went out 2 days ago, so i will let you know what happens after i take the bike in to get fixed.
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Old 05-18-2004, 08:41 PM   #13
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Got the fork seals fixed and went for a ride, same problems. purging and bleeding the water pump didn't help. so, i decided to flush the radiator and get a new thermostat, that didn't do it either. so, i took off the water pump and then took that apart, seems to still be spinning and fine (i think). When do you know when a water pump is bad? What other ideas do you guys have?
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Old 05-19-2004, 07:20 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by -1995-zx9r-
Got the fork seals fixed and went for a ride, same problems. purging and bleeding the water pump didn't help. so, i decided to flush the radiator and get a new thermostat, that didn't do it either. so, i took off the water pump and then took that apart, seems to still be spinning and fine (i think). When do you know when a water pump is bad? What other ideas do you guys have?

Head gasket, sorry to say. Water pumps usually leak when they fail but occasionally the bearings go and yet they still don't leak. Regardless, if the thing is turning and the impeller is intact, it's not the cause of the overheating.
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Old 05-19-2004, 02:47 PM   #15
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Next step would be a leak-down test. This involves pressurizing the combustion chamber with a fitting similar to a compression check. With the coolant system full and the radiator cap off, the coolant @ the fill neck will rise and/or bubble if there's compression leaking into the cooling system when compressed air is applied to bad cylinder. If you get any movement of coolant @ the fill neck when doing this, you'll have to tear her down.
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